tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-974167911248924982024-03-04T21:11:02.375-08:00Airstream VoyagesBill and Janet Wickmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00709789350296904497noreply@blogger.comBlogger147125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-97416791124892498.post-67889206449657350912017-10-12T19:46:00.001-07:002022-12-05T17:35:57.062-08:00......and one more thing!“All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream <br />
by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in<br />
the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers <br />
of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their<br />
dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. This I did.”<br />
—T.E. Lawrence (of Arabia) , from “Seven Pillars of Wisdom”<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Airstream at Lake Union, Seattle</td></tr>
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Today the sale of Airstream was completed. Funds were transferred from the maritime title company to our accounts and the new owners took possession. What can I say? We owned that boat for thirteen years. We took her to Mexico and back up the coast to our home in northern California. We took her up and down the coast a few times. We were dismasted off Cape Mendocino and had her re-rigged in 2006. <br />
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</div> We went around the world beginning in 2008 and we spent an average of seven months a year aboard for more than nine years. We sailed across the Pacific and through the Indian Ocean to SE Asia. We basically spent three years in the Pacific, three years in the Indian Ocean and SE Asia and three years in the Mediterranean. We sailed across the Atlantic to the Caribbean and through the Panama Canal to Central America. We shipped the boat through the Gulf of Aden due to pirate problems and up the Pacific Coast of Central America just because we’d done a lot of that before, and frankly, didn’t feel like doing it again. <br />
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We spent what for us was a lot of money. We agree completely that it was money very well spent. It was a great experience and we were very, very lucky to have had the time and means to make the dream a reality. <br />
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The new owners are a nice couple from the Seattle area who have cruising plans. They seem to have the drive and knowledge to make it happen. Mike Locatell of Discovery Yachts was our broker. We’ve bought two boats through Mike and now we’ve sold two. I certainly don’t know of a more knowledgeable and honest broker.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Mike Locatell</td></tr>
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He and his wife Beth have been friends since our first work together back in about 1998. We had a lovely sea trial with the prospective buyers on Lake Washington and a very thorough survey done the next day at Canal Boat Yard on Lake Union.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea trial and survey</td></tr>
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Its an old and trite remark that the two happiest days in a boat owners life are the day its purchased and the day its sold. I say its not true. Both were good enough but in between we had many, many happier days using the boat for the purpose it was designed.<br />
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I’ve never before anthropomorphized a boat but this boat did take on a personality and we had a complex relationship. It is a fast, strong, seaworthy, occasionally demanding, craft to sail the seven seas. I’m not Lawrence, a man of magnificent dreams, but this was a dream machine. <br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream<br />
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PS: All photos on this post by Janet and by Lee Youngblood of West Yachts. <div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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Do you miss the sea?</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A little North Atlantic cross swell</td></tr>
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That question voiced by a friend was a bit of a surprise. It hadn’t occurred to me that I might ‘miss the sea’. My thoughts had been more along the line as to whether I would miss the cruising lifestyle. Would I miss our boat? Would I miss the great friends we made and who are now spread out around the world? Would I miss the adventure? The cultural interaction? The spirit of discovery? The Albatross buzzing our boat hour after hour with a big sea running on a breezy boisterous afternoon en-route from Tonga to New Zealand?</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bob Hoover, the Albatross</td></tr>
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The plan has always been to finish off this blog with a final post summarizing our experience. I could offer the traditional advice to those considering a cruise concerning boat selection, equipment, sails, navigational techniques, provisioning, crew, destinations, weather, attitude, safety, regulation, insurance, ad infinitum.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fatu Hiva, the Bay of Virgins</td></tr>
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That has all been written before by people with more experience than me hoping to make a few dollars. I’ll just recommend Beth Leonard’s books as sensible sources of information from an experienced sailor/author. This isn’t going to be that kind of post. The fact is that just about any selection of material goods can be made to work, kind of. As in everything else in life there is a price to pay for any decision made. Actually making the decision is what matters.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To the Marquesas</td></tr>
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The first and most difficult decision is to go. For every boat out there doing a major voyage there are easily a thousand that seldom leave the dock and will never lose sight of land. For every seaman or woman who do the deed, who walk the talk, there are unknown thousands who have a boat and rattle on about their plans for adventure. And that’s all they do. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">World's best yachtie bar, The Washaway Bar, Niue</td></tr>
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Our small local yacht club is composed mostly of those who do what they say they intend to do. There are a high percentage of people in this group with a great deal of experience sailing and racing around much of the world. And those in the club that haven’t or don’t intend to do these things have other interests and no pretensions. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwk5mFS6sDvF4FhR3bSkGc5LDbIE7b81HyT9b22rvEMSNM3-9ybnFlguxqSVnwg3lgc62fZUyB_yQWZrRVDjHgi5tIIqKGpsvchOiZ3N2ciFGH8zW6XbXIrukuliZhQO3d54PEqaLuCVeJ/s1600/IMG_9025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwk5mFS6sDvF4FhR3bSkGc5LDbIE7b81HyT9b22rvEMSNM3-9ybnFlguxqSVnwg3lgc62fZUyB_yQWZrRVDjHgi5tIIqKGpsvchOiZ3N2ciFGH8zW6XbXIrukuliZhQO3d54PEqaLuCVeJ/s320/IMG_9025.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tongan sunset</td></tr>
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That has been my general impression visiting sail oriented yacht clubs around the world. They’re a good group of people, some with more money than others, but those with a real interest in some aspect of sailing, other than talking, tend to band together. If you’re contemplating a cruise or racing or just want to learn about sailing get involved with those that already ‘do’ . Then if the time comes to makes a decision it really won’t involve much of a decision at all. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Campfire in the Yasawa Group, Fiji</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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One major consideration for most of us in making that ‘decision’ is money. Can you afford to go? My equation for that determination is: D+M=C, where D=desire, M=money and C=cruising. And working through this complex formula it can easily be seen that the more desire the less money is necessary and vice versa. Do you have very little and no need for more? It is possible to live very cheaply out there and you might have more fun than ashore.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ua Po, the Marquesas</td></tr>
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Do you have what you need and you want to go? Go for it, my only caveat is that I personally don’t know anyone who ever made any money out cruising. Or at least made anywhere near as much as they could have made gainfully employed at something else. Monetary gain is not what this is about. Generally quite the opposite.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruising kids do very well</td></tr>
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What do you really need? To coin a phrase, “All you need is love”. Seriously folks. There are single handers and some good people revel in their single-handedness. But some cruel person once said there is a reason a lot of those single-handers are single-handers. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The most important stuff</td></tr>
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Most of us enjoy the company and the best company is a loving spouse, lover, special friend, whatever. They tend to make the fun a lot more fun. There can be an occasional “challenge” out there. Actually I hate that politically correct term “challenge’. There are times when life is a bitch out there and a person can get scared or hurt or just darn discouraged. You just might need help and who better to be around when the stuff hits the fan than the best other person in your life. Along that line I’ll say a few words about additional crew. Experienced sailors who are airline pilots make very, very good crew! Thanks guys, you’ll always be a the top of my list.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great crew!</td></tr>
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So do I miss the sea? No. Do I have a love for the sea? No, but I loved the things we did on the sea. I loved some days we spent on the sea. I would not have missed the time we spent at sea for almost anything. There can be great beauty at sea and a richness of life and experience equal to any found on terra firma. But to me the sea itself is an immense, uncaring, inanimate and neutral force. It is powerful beyond human measure, eternal, merciless and deserving of respect and fear. We go to the sea on its terms. Although human innovation has made life afloat easier the sea is still beyond humanity. Go and use it, live off it, enjoy it, but do not play the fool.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great experiences</td></tr>
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About those other questions. We lived the cruising lifestyle, one pretty good version of it, very well and had a great experience. After nine years much of the early days seem almost like a dream. I’m sure if we went back to some of our first destinations we’d find they have already changed greatly. We had wonderful experiences but we do not miss that life. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYMkoHEXwr5IVSx6X261YUtCmUn73XyDdif54klF4cl1_sxWWT3RTzkoE0TboiKhLoXW4j8IXQCEDJLCq166p4-ijMacKrJaLrtpErpnnAkkxdd9bs8A2kYgPaBaUpEhKRSZgZFNhb_ohB/s1600/P5280651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYMkoHEXwr5IVSx6X261YUtCmUn73XyDdif54klF4cl1_sxWWT3RTzkoE0TboiKhLoXW4j8IXQCEDJLCq166p4-ijMacKrJaLrtpErpnnAkkxdd9bs8A2kYgPaBaUpEhKRSZgZFNhb_ohB/s320/P5280651.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great destinations!</td></tr>
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Life here is very good and we look forward to many things. Airstream was a great boat and a faithful steed. That boat will be missed. We will always miss our cruising friends. The way it works in life we will probably never see some of them again. But we hope that’s not completely true and for you all, our house is yours, anytime. Adventure? We have some plans involving airplanes and the non-commercial use thereof. Cultural interaction? Just interacting with the cultural around Humboldt County can be a bit of an adventure plus we’ll be doing plenty of land travel. There are large areas of the world map we haven’t seen at all. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwsgeWL1-ZDMPRya8omKoHoxvb_PXqxJo-XlAuaRruhL2ZNpeL0KqW8v9paj4bVF4nzt5hOZc1j2aE9GrvPI2PCZQteVh-2BYFHqY02r0yi8mLN5dMHMs25_hyI_AZFJ6pYkcU-Ruw7v25/s1600/IMG_2591.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwsgeWL1-ZDMPRya8omKoHoxvb_PXqxJo-XlAuaRruhL2ZNpeL0KqW8v9paj4bVF4nzt5hOZc1j2aE9GrvPI2PCZQteVh-2BYFHqY02r0yi8mLN5dMHMs25_hyI_AZFJ6pYkcU-Ruw7v25/s320/IMG_2591.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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With a little luck the Albatross that spent so much time with us going to New Zealand is still out there somewhere. Watching him soar for hours a few feet above the swells barely moving a feather was a great lesson in energy conservation and the aerodynamics of winged flight. We’ll put some of that to use in the near future.</div>
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Love to all,<br />
Bill and Janet Wickman<br />
SV Airstream</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvgJQcFaNs-8eVaE81F002nOT-kcVedc4-a51dlSDsg6RsgbDyTNB5GscPMgyQfdXpnSB94Qi5o_0ABM52SO0iqwWFQLwCxKz0Iuey1N_TFCmkmbUgYW0e04zuJxkIJckwbH8vhxVImF0j/s1600/IMG_0611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvgJQcFaNs-8eVaE81F002nOT-kcVedc4-a51dlSDsg6RsgbDyTNB5GscPMgyQfdXpnSB94Qi5o_0ABM52SO0iqwWFQLwCxKz0Iuey1N_TFCmkmbUgYW0e04zuJxkIJckwbH8vhxVImF0j/s320/IMG_0611.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">N611RS ?</td></tr>
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We spent a chilly three weeks in Seattle. Temperatures were in the twenties at night and thirties in the day. An occasional rise to maybe forty-one but darn seldom. There was a nice break for a week in Colorado for a family Christmas. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghQG9rMDyqbrTo2MmZvJl-65a2z5dkgJUVXkd2GcA-1XpBBerZeqfS7qUJepkjp9vTFY6NnzGIz48qkLQOyyswmme8nat3vynEy98qSWIaE8M-two4Rj6iA3Ob0PSPDH0OGk-uBQXv5g0n/s1600/15673012_10154887419232803_3711892975802909405_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghQG9rMDyqbrTo2MmZvJl-65a2z5dkgJUVXkd2GcA-1XpBBerZeqfS7qUJepkjp9vTFY6NnzGIz48qkLQOyyswmme8nat3vynEy98qSWIaE8M-two4Rj6iA3Ob0PSPDH0OGk-uBQXv5g0n/s320/15673012_10154887419232803_3711892975802909405_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas with family</td></tr>
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We spent the Seattle time getting the boat ready to be shown to potential buyers and socializing with friends in the Seattle area. The boat was actually in reasonably good condition but it is amazing how much ‘stuff’ can come off a machine that’s traveled around the world in the last nine years. And how much cleaner you can really make it, once the stuff is off, when motivated by a potential sale. I guess that translates as the power of money!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81xcts7G_alu6o5vhYhM-r-1-sZ3-vVMjUOzw8jpzsKhPoqbaBOzKZIQgxjtz2LTv9wHjNNRxvRL4EWAAPh7oF63X7oUv_ASEOhWsp98rxxvNvIVIC2J62zedtUbyaZ-V6nXW8rO_GkF7/s1600/IMG_2744.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg81xcts7G_alu6o5vhYhM-r-1-sZ3-vVMjUOzw8jpzsKhPoqbaBOzKZIQgxjtz2LTv9wHjNNRxvRL4EWAAPh7oF63X7oUv_ASEOhWsp98rxxvNvIVIC2J62zedtUbyaZ-V6nXW8rO_GkF7/s320/IMG_2744.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner with good friends in Seattle</td></tr>
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Amid all the lovely times with friends and the mild drudgery there has been some time for reflection on this trip. “What do it mean”…what did it mean? What’s important? Maybe, what’s not. That’s for the next, and probably the last, post of this blog. For now I’d like to answer the two questions that always come up when we meet someone who wants to chat about the trip.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS-H6CqMSYI7oRACgLj5q4LpKWyxqqEY-a1M0jqIoZs5mE1tBELLR1ey7iwd6PMOQXw1_UgQTMqLOzR13vgichAPdAahkS0h3oRpyLV86MVQWZ8M8lOeJINqhvpzUHNZ2p30Reh82ytE10/s1600/IMG_2154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS-H6CqMSYI7oRACgLj5q4LpKWyxqqEY-a1M0jqIoZs5mE1tBELLR1ey7iwd6PMOQXw1_UgQTMqLOzR13vgichAPdAahkS0h3oRpyLV86MVQWZ8M8lOeJINqhvpzUHNZ2p30Reh82ytE10/s320/IMG_2154.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice day at sea somewhere</td></tr>
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Question Number One: WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE?<br />
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I used to roll my eyes at that question and say something like ‘impossible’. There were too many wonderful places from the Pacific to SE Asia to Greece, Turkey and the Med. But lately its become obvious it deserves an answer. For me that answer is “Vanuatu”. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLtdOGy57gBCLq4aD8P1t2ske_mbzeysS0H39RIup3l9Evlv4-cVdHEB45IGSDZk7XXmoVrQkoLBTPHHcXIq2Cbe4wRS5CKEi9V5uvEVs9Pg0SUpJnE1oVUmv8uBNZtRmMIjgsPXNcMpqW/s1600/IMG_1745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLtdOGy57gBCLq4aD8P1t2ske_mbzeysS0H39RIup3l9Evlv4-cVdHEB45IGSDZk7XXmoVrQkoLBTPHHcXIq2Cbe4wRS5CKEi9V5uvEVs9Pg0SUpJnE1oVUmv8uBNZtRmMIjgsPXNcMpqW/s320/IMG_1745.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">309nm to Port Resolution</td></tr>
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The physical beauty of the islands that make up the archipelago, the relatively intact indigenous culture and the experiences we had there made it very special. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegq-6U6_XQlhA5AyQEXAxl7gtuvUuoyiAtyL0IaH_cRB7zR7ZWkI5j_P-uYPvK_0NMwvtTyB3kyVml_3TOxB1NgO_o8p6QZvGsJELqmsmuYYWfRdjAGTTbNqSO_3goTDsouKXlVud31FC/s1600/IMG_1880.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhegq-6U6_XQlhA5AyQEXAxl7gtuvUuoyiAtyL0IaH_cRB7zR7ZWkI5j_P-uYPvK_0NMwvtTyB3kyVml_3TOxB1NgO_o8p6QZvGsJELqmsmuYYWfRdjAGTTbNqSO_3goTDsouKXlVud31FC/s320/IMG_1880.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port Resolution, Tanna</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Coming into lovely, lush, undeveloped Resolution Bay on the island of Tanna arriving from Fiji with the active volcano of Mt. Yasur erupting above the bay, the same volcano that has been in continuous eruption since Cook first saw it in 1774, was a wonderful beginning. We had a rugged but beautiful ride in the back of a truck over the mountains to the community where we could check into the country. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCFAKuwOe_V42gm18lcpOfJFl6pSawXrspKTJqpkXyTnH1EYuR6ui68vyjXD26rPXdbxvL02pJoRsH4zO35FEnuu6K7k2Cbc30PwBaacmU38HEXRSoeZYXddyENCLVpgqt5334fxxT9PLN/s1600/IMG_3053.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCFAKuwOe_V42gm18lcpOfJFl6pSawXrspKTJqpkXyTnH1EYuR6ui68vyjXD26rPXdbxvL02pJoRsH4zO35FEnuu6K7k2Cbc30PwBaacmU38HEXRSoeZYXddyENCLVpgqt5334fxxT9PLN/s320/IMG_3053.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hitch hiking in Vanuatu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxUn7ILEvd6XE7GCusTq9rhxt_GEdaCCuDLFLoFgzFo8JyvsyS61A8Um6SZgln9XdFLxJDulWF6nB7pqyCbbn1HKS4y_ardBMHCcWW5fJzMtFCpKiJYvNesqsBj2i20b5w9E5HHl8yce9/s1600/IMG_2040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxUn7ILEvd6XE7GCusTq9rhxt_GEdaCCuDLFLoFgzFo8JyvsyS61A8Um6SZgln9XdFLxJDulWF6nB7pqyCbbn1HKS4y_ardBMHCcWW5fJzMtFCpKiJYvNesqsBj2i20b5w9E5HHl8yce9/s320/IMG_2040.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Customs, Tanna</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig6wtXYuHLTU6AuoSExK4qAdQTPH_esCjJ_6QnUXJoTCHZrMoywyLH7e_yXbojDgnKxp0BCFakOJeEFDDZ2GqwWKY5aOIP5sFkivwXr7bpXcawJ9FKs7W_nIFaTP1abulHIVK9cg8RdKEm/s1600/IMG_1853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig6wtXYuHLTU6AuoSExK4qAdQTPH_esCjJ_6QnUXJoTCHZrMoywyLH7e_yXbojDgnKxp0BCFakOJeEFDDZ2GqwWKY5aOIP5sFkivwXr7bpXcawJ9FKs7W_nIFaTP1abulHIVK9cg8RdKEm/s320/IMG_1853.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yasur volcano from the rim</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We hiked to the rim of the volcano and spent a spectacular evening viewing the eruption. We sailed the trades north into the archipelago and enjoyed the relative sophistication of Port Vila and the unspoiled villages everywhere else. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR7F990K3huYdpQxMMblZRS1iUPXLXcZ5ue0ONLm4LAumJbfIG7j0xK7jnXLvJSJjWxmYvg5h-fRFqpe1bPq0bm7gbB-djrzldBgFDxIfumCgPh2ekybT2DF3z7XPHkkekyyt6EPIOgYED/s1600/IMG_1930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR7F990K3huYdpQxMMblZRS1iUPXLXcZ5ue0ONLm4LAumJbfIG7j0xK7jnXLvJSJjWxmYvg5h-fRFqpe1bPq0bm7gbB-djrzldBgFDxIfumCgPh2ekybT2DF3z7XPHkkekyyt6EPIOgYED/s320/IMG_1930.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Views on Tanna</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
We chuckled that Vanuatu ‘officially’ declared cannibalism to be over in 1968. And that the word hadn’t got out completely because an unlucky tourist got killed and eaten a couple years before we arrived. We met sweet people everywhere. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGJLdvKQxXY7QPieATvf2_ZoA6FR0n9PonlYw_jsUf6D42ixSnx92KGwlYcF66zsCFJPq6GTNTF8BdBgxn9btAzjMV1aYoX_dCoWw7pNrtCe5sV0PWYw5WrtQO-yIvLBU3DFrw1RsrchdX/s1600/IMG_1933.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGJLdvKQxXY7QPieATvf2_ZoA6FR0n9PonlYw_jsUf6D42ixSnx92KGwlYcF66zsCFJPq6GTNTF8BdBgxn9btAzjMV1aYoX_dCoWw7pNrtCe5sV0PWYw5WrtQO-yIvLBU3DFrw1RsrchdX/s320/IMG_1933.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh47MfSb0hbJo0FWAia4AaLO5J4CAGqYrpIrj5iv2M6nEzn6RB49BTBYZx7d8LBuU11ltRygJl7WLw_2x-i8ISdrgbvS5aQ9GNV6YPSGqAP3AMPRD81-tKKApTGR5eUDndRQ8KVJgPmK5Z/s1600/IMG_2063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh47MfSb0hbJo0FWAia4AaLO5J4CAGqYrpIrj5iv2M6nEzn6RB49BTBYZx7d8LBuU11ltRygJl7WLw_2x-i8ISdrgbvS5aQ9GNV6YPSGqAP3AMPRD81-tKKApTGR5eUDndRQ8KVJgPmK5Z/s320/IMG_2063.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88eb8j5kC5R9o59Nr26zSxNj6yUo-eQIMFxVQc1EW6khX1-c6fkoiv6SoekKViXhg1elOogL4-LFEVe_BS1mxTJtOGJz0WBh3pgQToD0QFtkRHKYJ63cBosJoj7fz5b6y9LXtBmiIbWAW/s1600/IMG_2894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi88eb8j5kC5R9o59Nr26zSxNj6yUo-eQIMFxVQc1EW6khX1-c6fkoiv6SoekKViXhg1elOogL4-LFEVe_BS1mxTJtOGJz0WBh3pgQToD0QFtkRHKYJ63cBosJoj7fz5b6y9LXtBmiIbWAW/s320/IMG_2894.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioo2y5XhlyDlbcN9Uf_Iy9hByTpD6NSzX2i2tKr-n1zN6VGt5Hh6qZb95N8GiHMeFI7F3CRR__ODzZUDv4n9bhNpyCBMVHQ1gueV91aXjXYwIfx__0YqmP7U-cQdUCygBZFGK9s5rq5RYt/s1600/IMG_2000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioo2y5XhlyDlbcN9Uf_Iy9hByTpD6NSzX2i2tKr-n1zN6VGt5Hh6qZb95N8GiHMeFI7F3CRR__ODzZUDv4n9bhNpyCBMVHQ1gueV91aXjXYwIfx__0YqmP7U-cQdUCygBZFGK9s5rq5RYt/s320/IMG_2000.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5jrLjcLlj-8XswMvdQQncOaHYU7o3oVZC4d17PlyCyfSHB62-knkMpIApn2kBtlB0ATYjZUdFeW6DF3F42rbRbE019MLPX_s16tZOkTZGO4-ARIWBkzf8xWtOkJCcEnLe6xdXkqrZ-vU3/s1600/IMG_2958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5jrLjcLlj-8XswMvdQQncOaHYU7o3oVZC4d17PlyCyfSHB62-knkMpIApn2kBtlB0ATYjZUdFeW6DF3F42rbRbE019MLPX_s16tZOkTZGO4-ARIWBkzf8xWtOkJCcEnLe6xdXkqrZ-vU3/s320/IMG_2958.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh Cava</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
We visited “cargo cult” villages where “John Frum” is the principal god worshipped, especially on Tanna. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw24CNgGB55898GR9-usmJwMJWz0qM4uBZRi5N0JxC7ZiyX2qh8h4rOQh7B0h1JM74l65QEf-za35pJH7CAotqahIWfBZwY-sR4Ll8kx5n-0Bf66ZOXsUudotd2a_C3ZBTkSrp_vK9rtYB/s1600/Oyster+Bay%252C+Vanuatu+029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw24CNgGB55898GR9-usmJwMJWz0qM4uBZRi5N0JxC7ZiyX2qh8h4rOQh7B0h1JM74l65QEf-za35pJH7CAotqahIWfBZwY-sR4Ll8kx5n-0Bf66ZOXsUudotd2a_C3ZBTkSrp_vK9rtYB/s320/Oyster+Bay%252C+Vanuatu+029.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7aITdl8TkGlWg4_a3-BiZ6BP5gzspnftVcWpJR0QEgYktqBI94pvVC9JcNB-l3cHuuzo3azf7JKGprsTHc-PW-dZRAN-mCMaH0OyRqwTtI0MIIKr7xn5T3W8qTsVMr1bfZ3xF8roND9SO/s1600/IMG_3031.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7aITdl8TkGlWg4_a3-BiZ6BP5gzspnftVcWpJR0QEgYktqBI94pvVC9JcNB-l3cHuuzo3azf7JKGprsTHc-PW-dZRAN-mCMaH0OyRqwTtI0MIIKr7xn5T3W8qTsVMr1bfZ3xF8roND9SO/s320/IMG_3031.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The blue holes</td></tr>
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We took our dinghies up the cool freshwater streams to the ‘blue holes’ on Espirito Santo. We dove and did penetrations to depths of over two hundred feet on the spectacular wreck of the President Coolidge. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwYn86MrcwV5zciD_BCG_dTwgmf0JeJBT4M8ETDjfIbulVuaehQ0y0MbeUOlVlz2C4UpP8Az-e7Q_jx8eM7Rife5_9tpptoj4xA2ogKz_mnOgua7zCdhtNRGSCeZPoESx7p2mRSuaWN7NR/s1600/PA030087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwYn86MrcwV5zciD_BCG_dTwgmf0JeJBT4M8ETDjfIbulVuaehQ0y0MbeUOlVlz2C4UpP8Az-e7Q_jx8eM7Rife5_9tpptoj4xA2ogKz_mnOgua7zCdhtNRGSCeZPoESx7p2mRSuaWN7NR/s320/PA030087.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a deep dive on the Coolidge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhklUVkNDITIOLHUP0l59_KeVTYOx0a6QIN3z_CvspGABwdS06iZjCbxAwBvQxZCzO48TFQqwOaa3wetRL3U933FKXrAEZg6cpnej-CbIdxKis6mC9NhE1DijlDNrSYnR__ZritvsW-5W1y/s1600/IMG_2704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhklUVkNDITIOLHUP0l59_KeVTYOx0a6QIN3z_CvspGABwdS06iZjCbxAwBvQxZCzO48TFQqwOaa3wetRL3U933FKXrAEZg6cpnej-CbIdxKis6mC9NhE1DijlDNrSYnR__ZritvsW-5W1y/s320/IMG_2704.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Washing clothes on Pentacost</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrEjQvUl7PrmuzQLTGlrIvizsT_vfZ2e0Y9ssPHZfF0vD4s-U5ox9XfytE5oLFwZh2we8bK28t2LyKIRWbzOu50p_n4u4F85ifpMgE50fRawsCejCZB5v4BcxY-zJsE0JOyTNU1if2-eaj/s1600/IMG_2497.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrEjQvUl7PrmuzQLTGlrIvizsT_vfZ2e0Y9ssPHZfF0vD4s-U5ox9XfytE5oLFwZh2we8bK28t2LyKIRWbzOu50p_n4u4F85ifpMgE50fRawsCejCZB5v4BcxY-zJsE0JOyTNU1if2-eaj/s320/IMG_2497.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boating Vanuatu</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
James Michener got his inspiration for “Tales of The South Pacific” from his time on Espirito Santo during WWII. Vanuatu was the “New Hebrides” in those days. To me it is still a most special place. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBh32-0ICZhJx0pxQiErEnJ-3ccREhNqP56bEiRHXI405bbe2-sHgURsBwnnMX1zjoaLBCABcNXtVK7dMMri3JNY0218Sfn8Fchlzfi7d-UoPWpTM684VUkrJAih9ElXK_kRHdJmoBQtcB/s1600/IMG_6820.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBh32-0ICZhJx0pxQiErEnJ-3ccREhNqP56bEiRHXI405bbe2-sHgURsBwnnMX1zjoaLBCABcNXtVK7dMMri3JNY0218Sfn8Fchlzfi7d-UoPWpTM684VUkrJAih9ElXK_kRHdJmoBQtcB/s320/IMG_6820.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bora Bora in the distance</td></tr>
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When Janet is asked that same question she is likely to respond with “the South Pacific”. When I bug her to be more specific she will say, “French Polynesia” or “Bora Bora” or “Moorea”. The part of French Polynesia known as the Society Islands was most special to her. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN6PuoJBgUHNLo6eCGrzgU7GXqrpWOpOB1OvHb6TZJT3Ytrp6AJJ8n-UCeojcVdI9CcfB-oq4sSfzT4kEGrPRPJAjCudYeHjWfpLjdZXk7YS9CN7phyphenhyphen_w6leQ_xm3eeZ0L09toL1YpsHCd/s1600/IMG_6067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN6PuoJBgUHNLo6eCGrzgU7GXqrpWOpOB1OvHb6TZJT3Ytrp6AJJ8n-UCeojcVdI9CcfB-oq4sSfzT4kEGrPRPJAjCudYeHjWfpLjdZXk7YS9CN7phyphenhyphen_w6leQ_xm3eeZ0L09toL1YpsHCd/s320/IMG_6067.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrf2AIU_XB1NnvIlnH6KDegmkWvS7YDxmWovlUTH0NnYsbdCi_T2cnbBM6YVDi-Kd5-c6c2GwBRL96SMHCxIjaXPMxPcvDyLgjeAj5J_QjPIzxCM7-OrNhl6Thz4rO9s_otvX7zSUMpbDv/s1600/IMG_6425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrf2AIU_XB1NnvIlnH6KDegmkWvS7YDxmWovlUTH0NnYsbdCi_T2cnbBM6YVDi-Kd5-c6c2GwBRL96SMHCxIjaXPMxPcvDyLgjeAj5J_QjPIzxCM7-OrNhl6Thz4rO9s_otvX7zSUMpbDv/s320/IMG_6425.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cook's Bay, Moorea</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OUkcgwYv_NXOudGrP2ZgEQjo5FtsrBh1qLDVAO9yyVABDpsGiIsB001A8LPvNu1bwUnqBRIrWSUErwcFedz9EFwHQT0a7fISu3bc76P_FcKRThitCuB_0BJ20dac04wFywA4H53keadS/s1600/IMG_6175.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_OUkcgwYv_NXOudGrP2ZgEQjo5FtsrBh1qLDVAO9yyVABDpsGiIsB001A8LPvNu1bwUnqBRIrWSUErwcFedz9EFwHQT0a7fISu3bc76P_FcKRThitCuB_0BJ20dac04wFywA4H53keadS/s320/IMG_6175.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bora Bora</td></tr>
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She would say the spectacular beauty of the islands themselves, Moorea in particular. She loved the snorkeling around some wonderful reefs. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivojLULYLSWv7EH48EJgn8FC7ALl7-5X-hIevtVlyJ4Kv0DUFDFbGcjwO4BR0vSVpSJq_LCaB3g9_dmL_5HcTLSe6uPBhCUt7U7EmIGiI1I8XTuLt925L7rsn2TmBUnO4ggZUnD8kQ8VaV/s1600/P6300025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivojLULYLSWv7EH48EJgn8FC7ALl7-5X-hIevtVlyJ4Kv0DUFDFbGcjwO4BR0vSVpSJq_LCaB3g9_dmL_5HcTLSe6uPBhCUt7U7EmIGiI1I8XTuLt925L7rsn2TmBUnO4ggZUnD8kQ8VaV/s320/P6300025.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLlMpr2Xu-e72H7aTIbeR5H3njhuqxluc3OLFoPQT0oloHRTcPxm6xC4qeHsFnX8O8TDGlH12gTDn0mdsUv_XDQdPjEpmQlAbGNiwsqulH-FmHLdIV_FHKoQqdX8k4TUSZYQZ55VktCj6f/s1600/P7050081.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLlMpr2Xu-e72H7aTIbeR5H3njhuqxluc3OLFoPQT0oloHRTcPxm6xC4qeHsFnX8O8TDGlH12gTDn0mdsUv_XDQdPjEpmQlAbGNiwsqulH-FmHLdIV_FHKoQqdX8k4TUSZYQZ55VktCj6f/s320/P7050081.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reef life in Bora Bora </td></tr>
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Friends on Tahiti showed us some beautiful places and provided some wonderful meals. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivMEzvE1zLYYJmk3d24UCO8_ARpMnfmHaoEHC3hBNVF7WyCVR9KmuiwCF6w6PuqppzfZJf-gTwpOPWXI15xNERUHUk_QBNV1BSUjBRjsQLEZKeumXiS3caqSCUNl7Web55ZhxM3xwsOzqv/s1600/IMG_5819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivMEzvE1zLYYJmk3d24UCO8_ARpMnfmHaoEHC3hBNVF7WyCVR9KmuiwCF6w6PuqppzfZJf-gTwpOPWXI15xNERUHUk_QBNV1BSUjBRjsQLEZKeumXiS3caqSCUNl7Web55ZhxM3xwsOzqv/s320/IMG_5819.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamid and Teresa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghDDZ5Rv8313bST4AIF01tmb3pJtcQ7aXXCgNQNczlPi9PrKboBdtXX607vzPbS-nxXJkPs-bxSqX-ovOs2q_GAkD8XNlLy6en24AJUoCqsHZ1ckROl2fV2EDdBCCqpm4lY6iI6tt42Dm1/s1600/IMG_5866.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghDDZ5Rv8313bST4AIF01tmb3pJtcQ7aXXCgNQNczlPi9PrKboBdtXX607vzPbS-nxXJkPs-bxSqX-ovOs2q_GAkD8XNlLy6en24AJUoCqsHZ1ckROl2fV2EDdBCCqpm4lY6iI6tt42Dm1/s320/IMG_5866.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch in Papeete</td></tr>
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Hamid, your lasagna is still the best we’ve ever had, anywhere. We had memorable times at Bloody Mary’s. There was a nice mix of traditional Polynesian culture and modern European sophistication. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioFYC68Jl9UNQ8X8iGF0IvZ_XTMNZglwM8McfbiV0qF7zfBJP7eDtdqE4h8xll5TFiL1Yo7qJGx8u6nVoj0GUVUzbJ3aROnipFPehj6DnuWNynLoj_PGwDmENA8TFzjDHz3FmRjrLNFCA9/s1600/IMG_7473.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioFYC68Jl9UNQ8X8iGF0IvZ_XTMNZglwM8McfbiV0qF7zfBJP7eDtdqE4h8xll5TFiL1Yo7qJGx8u6nVoj0GUVUzbJ3aROnipFPehj6DnuWNynLoj_PGwDmENA8TFzjDHz3FmRjrLNFCA9/s320/IMG_7473.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bloody Mary's, Bora Bora</td></tr>
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Since we were there in July during the Hiva festival we saw great dance and drum contests over several islands. The final competition on Bastille Day, also Janet’s birthday, was marvelous.</div>
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A good Polynesian drum band has to be heard to be believed, fantastic! And in the Society Islands we started to get to know some cruising people who became friends and who have been great friends ever since. We had a very memorable time in the Society Islands. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUB0v4KW8alGcZlny0DXwBerqvqBAbMUS06J4o3z0Os4_O-WYS1qrC76NsUYKa3BMnu9e3j9VLTQhz7fWtoBtFDDruVCVde_XFW664Vbl9JGrlPPpNqirMVnHyK7Ks19tJs6dGE2flCpbt/s1600/IMG_3056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUB0v4KW8alGcZlny0DXwBerqvqBAbMUS06J4o3z0Os4_O-WYS1qrC76NsUYKa3BMnu9e3j9VLTQhz7fWtoBtFDDruVCVde_XFW664Vbl9JGrlPPpNqirMVnHyK7Ks19tJs6dGE2flCpbt/s320/IMG_3056.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5u4UltvUbrQJf7O2pxkxeQs_soAlZAuTOi3jZCnVKiO86G8kgMWPfES2uMYOGzJNBhtDxGoxHdZs4Qt3FjPvugoaLzqOrBuWxCZ8HG7Bc9aUQzfa_FAPv807RDVC4EivN4450q4DUO_Ga/s1600/IMG_6502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5u4UltvUbrQJf7O2pxkxeQs_soAlZAuTOi3jZCnVKiO86G8kgMWPfES2uMYOGzJNBhtDxGoxHdZs4Qt3FjPvugoaLzqOrBuWxCZ8HG7Bc9aUQzfa_FAPv807RDVC4EivN4450q4DUO_Ga/s320/IMG_6502.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friends</td></tr>
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Question Number Two: WERE YOU EVER SCARED?<br />
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The short answer is, “No”. We each had our fears. Janet’s was hitting something on a passage and sinking the boat. Mine was losing someone overboard, including me of course, but her or a friend mostly. Would I have felt worse watching the boat sail off into the distance without me or searching a big sea for my lost sweetie or a good friend? </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilzutouMdS0tIEFYvm1rKgPd5P5ieCIfgFML7ViLX3acpWUGUUPDrwjPlHmpube6OSqktrLGQqEXkbgWSEpymD2QjeRnl-NsLILKU4EUH4lZpKRmtas0hXhw2efeWkoA6Op9wn5vakEC6Z/s1600/P4040344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilzutouMdS0tIEFYvm1rKgPd5P5ieCIfgFML7ViLX3acpWUGUUPDrwjPlHmpube6OSqktrLGQqEXkbgWSEpymD2QjeRnl-NsLILKU4EUH4lZpKRmtas0hXhw2efeWkoA6Op9wn5vakEC6Z/s320/P4040344.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">12-15 ft seas on the way to Fiji</td></tr>
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I don’t even like to think about the latter. Very thankfully those fears were not realized. There were “interesting” moments. A midnight, preventer breaking, slam jibe got my attention once. As in flying, weather is the big killer. These days weather forecasting and enroute information is so greatly improved that if one plays by the rules the chances of getting in serious trouble are greatly reduced. We had some rough passages but the boat was very confidence inspiring and proved to be a great dry, safe and seaworthy machine. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKh7HEsLpBcen6gboXafGAOHDrONjOcQuJGqQQw7jnZz-IHbnA8KM-53F0aOT1gN2GtaVFaoM4gwpuGreVYP_ih0g016_BByQddiWh4Bc082C5qXvRv_8pu69CZlCP3fH9bJ7csrxnQ-a/s1600/IMG_9299.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKh7HEsLpBcen6gboXafGAOHDrONjOcQuJGqQQw7jnZz-IHbnA8KM-53F0aOT1gN2GtaVFaoM4gwpuGreVYP_ih0g016_BByQddiWh4Bc082C5qXvRv_8pu69CZlCP3fH9bJ7csrxnQ-a/s320/IMG_9299.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passage to Opua</td></tr>
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We used Commander’s Weather on all the long passages, and another Australian forecaster as well on the passage down to New Zealand from Tonga. Commanders was always good and gave us confidence in our own analysis of the grib files and other info available by HF radio. So, having been severely scared a few times in other activities and finding that to be greatly overrated as an experience, I’m very happy to relate we were never really scared on this trip. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6awJaGECNQJoJz2wvIv5vDZJ8IbnyKxzxJmfF2VWYP9BiYk5u70ssa23SKpaNzoviHSrhrRYhJsBlR5FiRu9G8BF-8jADmuO3FiZMB7GtMz7Jdu1K7vMnFQPMyBOPRZc0auaTZwatEBt/s1600/IMG_7483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6awJaGECNQJoJz2wvIv5vDZJ8IbnyKxzxJmfF2VWYP9BiYk5u70ssa23SKpaNzoviHSrhrRYhJsBlR5FiRu9G8BF-8jADmuO3FiZMB7GtMz7Jdu1K7vMnFQPMyBOPRZc0auaTZwatEBt/s320/IMG_7483.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South Pacific sunset</td></tr>
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I’m still thinking over this experience and with a little luck I’ll be thinking it over for a long time. The next post will try to summarize some of those thoughts and try to communicate some ideas that might be helpful to someone interested in this kind of experience for themselves. <br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & JanetSV Airstream<br />
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PS: And yes, one more time, the boat is listed at: http://nwyachtnet.com/boat-details/?BoatID=6059783<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUXEa4r7p9ECqpmjg2Sf92Pg2paBDtV4wfsDKzOGFqI7SAAPJHk54gGzw9xxp6nYiNrsFrmPYKjlpq4DOiVF3BnRbBWmNZ-Z9fbU37geeMH9dqlb1XJQfYxHpe7YIGYbTsEWn02HaT946D/s1600/IMG_9584.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUXEa4r7p9ECqpmjg2Sf92Pg2paBDtV4wfsDKzOGFqI7SAAPJHk54gGzw9xxp6nYiNrsFrmPYKjlpq4DOiVF3BnRbBWmNZ-Z9fbU37geeMH9dqlb1XJQfYxHpe7YIGYbTsEWn02HaT946D/s320/IMG_9584.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Say it ain't SNOW!</td></tr>
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WHY is there snow on our decks? Why am I so stinking cold? Because its 26 effing degrees Fahrenheit in Victoria, British Columbia and its been snowing, that’s WHY! And our sweet warm weather boat has just been offloaded after shipment from Golfito, Costa Rica to Victoria. I’m sure the boat is in shock and although we’ve been in Vic for a couple days awaiting arrival, and know the forecast, its still no small irony that this is the coldest day of the year. I was really worried that it had been cold enough, long enough, that our fresh water plumbing might have frozen and some of the copper tubing might have split. That could create a lot of problems.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii2IFpIlMsN4sWejWbIyPvwUB9sZBVZCBIZyy87XQSZsJRZ_ffC5j02aqb2TCm5tCAujznqTf7f23WP6d4fEXpLCX8Ki0wff2oQ_zrKyJZY5uid0hmv9UIH3En_g16eiVY9MuXYCL2ciZi/s1600/IMG_9583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii2IFpIlMsN4sWejWbIyPvwUB9sZBVZCBIZyy87XQSZsJRZ_ffC5j02aqb2TCm5tCAujznqTf7f23WP6d4fEXpLCX8Ki0wff2oQ_zrKyJZY5uid0hmv9UIH3En_g16eiVY9MuXYCL2ciZi/s320/IMG_9583.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh well......</td></tr>
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This all started a few months ago when we realized that we really did not feel like bashing up the west coast of Central America and the USA to get home. We’ve done much of that coast before, some of it several times, and the thrill was gone. When we began this little voyage almost nine years ago I had a sinister ulterior motive in that I wanted to complete a circumnavigation. Then the great pirate panic of 2011 took place and some friends got killed in the Gulf of Aden. We considered many alternatives but ultimately we wanted to cruise the Med and we couldn’t find a practical way to sail the boat to that sea. So we shipped the boat on SevenStar Yacht Transport to Marmaris, Turkey. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfaSC0MAJGZ_imdixhl6wgIG7YfWU62Jy5C0sGn451oftZ0B_zeklnhAw7k72jfHmvVVQA9usf1k1ixFFl9Vge8yhRZPltdW8bgulFNGUOGW1gEjO5r4XDLZAGGV745ms-A0CSYvOlk-f0/s1600/IMG_0578.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfaSC0MAJGZ_imdixhl6wgIG7YfWU62Jy5C0sGn451oftZ0B_zeklnhAw7k72jfHmvVVQA9usf1k1ixFFl9Vge8yhRZPltdW8bgulFNGUOGW1gEjO5r4XDLZAGGV745ms-A0CSYvOlk-f0/s320/IMG_0578.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Janet at Fish Hook. One of our favorite marinas.</td></tr>
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All this is outlined in the blog posts from those years. We have no regrets about that decision but it did mean that a circumnavigation was no longer a possibility. So now, in 2016, with the claim of a circumnavigation no longer at stake the joys of Central America and the Mexican Riviera couldn’t overcome the unpleasant anticipation of the bash northward against wind and current. SevenStar had a ship heading north with stops in Golfito, LaPaz, Ensenada and Victoria, BC. They dangled a pretty good deal on a shipment all the way to Victoria and we bit. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrzHgCPQVjoU-tudOuJ4mAUoniPUzGwnqUQYYBpDTpijyqJfTkuCTC6UhrKFWdhcROw2dL7k2e_iww1adZ2FO1asq7UQVEk4UGy5N1r8AgSL41-5cQG9Mp125bJq7vU7Lbz_Orx0FLbkry/s1600/IMG_9549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrzHgCPQVjoU-tudOuJ4mAUoniPUzGwnqUQYYBpDTpijyqJfTkuCTC6UhrKFWdhcROw2dL7k2e_iww1adZ2FO1asq7UQVEk4UGy5N1r8AgSL41-5cQG9Mp125bJq7vU7Lbz_Orx0FLbkry/s320/IMG_9549.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MV Happy Dynamic arrives in Golfito</td></tr>
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So we enjoyed our time in Golfito waiting for the ship. The motor vessel Happy Dynamic, the SevenStar ship, arrived on time and loading was professional and without incident. We said goodbye to the staff at Fish Hook Marina who were absolutely first class and had become friends, took a car to San Jose and caught a flight for home. Bye, bye tropical world. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loading, always a tense time.</td></tr>
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Home was nice for a week. But too soon we packed some boat stuff into the back of my pickup and headed for Victoria. Stops in Portland to spend a night with friends and Seattle to arrange selling logistics broke up the trip. We took the Victoria Clipper, a big 30 knot catamaran ferry to Vic and settled into a nice hotel to wait for the ship. It was cold! We were not acclimated. Victoria is a lovely town but walking around in 20-30 degree weather when one is used to 90 degrees dissipates the charm. Happy Dynamic arrived without undue delay and we were scheduled for an 0900 offload next day. Rather amazingly we were picked up by a launch at 0830, taken over to the ship where Airstream had already been unloaded and we were aboard by 0900. Incredible! Also really nice was the fact that the ocean was staying on the outside of the boat, no leaks, the boat was in good condition, not too dirty, the engine started and the water pipes were not frozen! </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Think chilly!</td></tr>
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With a good weather forecast and the notorious Strait of Juan de Fuca mill pond smooth we just pulled off the side of the ship and headed across the strait to Port Angeles where we could clear the boat back into the the USA for the first time since April 1st, 2008. That felt rather good I will say. We spent a night in Port Angeles and motored the next day to Port Townsend. Spent a night there and then had a choppy motor against wind and current to Shilshole Bay Marina in Seattle. A night there and then through the Ballard Canal and locks into Lake Union. It was a lovely passage. The snow in the mountains of the Olympic Peninsula was a fitting visual climax to the trip. That’s the end of this voyage. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puget Sound in winter.</td></tr>
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Sooooo………by GPS we’ve put 29,945 nautical miles on the boat since departing Humboldt Bay. That does not include the estimated 12,000 miles the boat did on the deck of ships from Singapore to Marmaris and from Golfito to Victoria. We’re at a nice convenient slip at Discovery Yacht’s docks on Lake Union and the boat is for sale. Mike and Beth Locatell who own Discovery Yachts are old friends who we’ve bought two boats through and sold one. Now we hope to sell another soon. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike Locatell and Louis Nelson on board </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Through the locks</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Under and through the bridges</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To Lake Union</td></tr>
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We’ll be living on the boat until the middle of January. The day it sells will be one of mixed feelings for sure. I intend to post one more blog concerning this little venture. Maybe I’ll have some cruising thoughts sorted out for that one. For now we’re back to thinking about AIRPLANES!<br />
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Happy New Year!<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream</div>
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Danger! Warning! Alert! Do not leave your luscious sweet chocolate brownie uneaten in your luxurious hooch over the sea. Beware, marauding Coatis! Yes folks, these cute long tailed smoochy faced critters have no respect for your personal space. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Couatis</td></tr>
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You want lovely open air accommodations in the most beautiful and unspoiled wildness of Costa Rica? You learn to take a few precautions. Coatis will walk right in. If you close it they’ll open your sliding screen door. They’ll go through your bathroom stuff. They will eat your chocolate brownie! Yelling and throwing things will only get you a snotty look. Where’s my BB gun? A little sting in the behind might prove more effective.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ferry to Puerto Jimenez, gateway to the Osa</td></tr>
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So we’ve been doing some land travel in Costa Rica. Two trips over the past couple weeks. Killing time in a most enjoyable manner. We took a local ferry over to the Osa Peninsula, the wildest and most untraveled part of Costa Rica, and stayed four nights at the Bosque del Cabo Lodge. This place we can give the very highest recommendation. Expensive but gorgeous. Eight hundred and fifty acres of forest property five hundred feet above the very tip of the peninsula.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our cabana</td></tr>
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There are eighteen ‘cabanas’ , all very private, with every luxury and great food. What you will not find in this very isolated place, a forty minute drive over a very rough road from the ferry landing, is entertainment of any kind or night life beyond a drink with fellow guests in the nice bar.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water fall trail hike</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the beach</td></tr>
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This is a place to walk miles of beach where the only foot prints are your own. Where you have Toucans and Scarlet Macaws in the trees above your deck and where you may have ten Coatis and half a dozen Agoutis in sight at any given time.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scarlet Macaw</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chestnut Billed Toucan</td></tr>
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All four species of monkey found in Costa Rica are common. There are Jaguar, Puma, Ocelot and Margay. We saw no big cats but another couple did have a nice viewing of a Puma stalking an ant eater. Since this is the low season there were a grand total of eight of us at the lodge. It was one of the nicest places we have ever stayed, anywhere.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTUicMhjpzxRTuuo95R5bBPudgdjZYl5Yu2nm6-WsYGrr47v2qAm4f-OR-sqdUzN7Og-hHxnqv9O2fBO16Vs5Ah2UA6fIS_x4b4tQn0Bp50P4hVFlHqOoggP3TPbDfgNJyg8-Hakr6eomd/s1600/IMG_9181.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTUicMhjpzxRTuuo95R5bBPudgdjZYl5Yu2nm6-WsYGrr47v2qAm4f-OR-sqdUzN7Og-hHxnqv9O2fBO16Vs5Ah2UA6fIS_x4b4tQn0Bp50P4hVFlHqOoggP3TPbDfgNJyg8-Hakr6eomd/s320/IMG_9181.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Agouti</td></tr>
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Bosque del Cabo was a tough act to follow. We laid back a few days on the boat and then took off on a long planned road trip. And road trips in third world countries have a lot more potential danger than any Coati. Perhaps my most death defying travel feat was surviving three months on a motorcycle in Thailand. Costa Rica was nothing like that but the roads vary from decent modern highway to nearly impassable by four wheel drive.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjydIslhherDbuh6RYAmzGX-epcQ5V_kIKDsqMmZzPA8T69HLECJYwLNpyrXIMa9Rns1h-1lSTcAvAqV4xQBiEbBW3k9zQgJqGaIaGIjdfCU_gzMZjiK90VNdYeaEFK4kXmAZRi-10UazAh/s1600/IMG_9323.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjydIslhherDbuh6RYAmzGX-epcQ5V_kIKDsqMmZzPA8T69HLECJYwLNpyrXIMa9Rns1h-1lSTcAvAqV4xQBiEbBW3k9zQgJqGaIaGIjdfCU_gzMZjiK90VNdYeaEFK4kXmAZRi-10UazAh/s320/IMG_9323.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mighty Terio</td></tr>
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The quality of driving is pretty low, not fast, just bad. We rented a small four wheel drive car, a Daihatsu Terio, which is nothing I would recommend for purchase. Its a dog, but it did get us around without failure, crappy tires and all. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC1rPlS06CDMv0ZtrjZ8uACC4EqsQa8iw1POR8mEiygtpZLWLUKhyphenhyphenNggTKoDzT6GUD5-LTxITszAHne9vvk1cpzTvfmokZ_LqdtZrWe0hpPZ6iYgnp8zkCZkde5x37HmCyZpDm2o_LU-Gb/s1600/IMG_9248.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC1rPlS06CDMv0ZtrjZ8uACC4EqsQa8iw1POR8mEiygtpZLWLUKhyphenhyphenNggTKoDzT6GUD5-LTxITszAHne9vvk1cpzTvfmokZ_LqdtZrWe0hpPZ6iYgnp8zkCZkde5x37HmCyZpDm2o_LU-Gb/s320/IMG_9248.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Jose</td></tr>
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We drove up to San Jose and spent a night at the Park Inn Radisson. Very clean and modern with every amenity and a huge corner room. Thank you Radisson. We did a little looking around in San Jose. The city seemed decent enough but with no real allure. We did have a drink at the Grano de Oro Hotel which is a gorgeous place, an old coffee magnate home, and where we intend to stay when next in San Jose. From San Jose it was a four hour drive through progressively higher terrain up to Monteverde and the cloud forest national parks. And Monteverde is a very mixed bag type place. I have a feeling its on the Lonely Planet backpackers bucket list. Even in this off season is was bustling with low end, but over priced, tourist activity. The Arco Iris Hotel where we stayed was quiet with nice grounds and very friendly staff. The countryside is lovely. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirju46-rBvx21SZcICZbwuv4R8wg-4Q5-bQ8UpZ_HYLhUOgxTgq8mzcJwVrKV90ZwKyVkSMCxuEUcmBn9_9A1tvzc9YewLBCYL82IDe-6fX5qUi03GQdqbHOBB22iSPgKrOnjaopEkBgJS/s1600/IMG_9330.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirju46-rBvx21SZcICZbwuv4R8wg-4Q5-bQ8UpZ_HYLhUOgxTgq8mzcJwVrKV90ZwKyVkSMCxuEUcmBn9_9A1tvzc9YewLBCYL82IDe-6fX5qUi03GQdqbHOBB22iSPgKrOnjaopEkBgJS/s320/IMG_9330.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloud Forest</td></tr>
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Our main goal was some hiking in the cloud forest parks. This we did and it was worth the trip. The higher altitude, five to six thousand feet, forest is in cloud most of the time and is a cool rainforest environment. The walks were were full of life.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaaZZIX7ZMG6vjvjgsBZ3OgZ8lWLKk2I8-f2NC84vY6ZLvI-GaI4wl_vviwk3mqrslRs8M7wzDMLMlgEu0fnR-rltEkTxa60BNtjaWqas1qZdA-7tkMFmp6NpngEZB4gl538B3ML3EoRhR/s1600/IMG_9423.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaaZZIX7ZMG6vjvjgsBZ3OgZ8lWLKk2I8-f2NC84vY6ZLvI-GaI4wl_vviwk3mqrslRs8M7wzDMLMlgEu0fnR-rltEkTxa60BNtjaWqas1qZdA-7tkMFmp6NpngEZB4gl538B3ML3EoRhR/s320/IMG_9423.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turquoise Browed Mot Mot. Note the split tail.</td></tr>
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The flip side of Monteverde is that there is that unpleasant grasping and hustling of the tourist dollar. Costa Rica is an expensive country in general but they really come after you in Monteverde and unlike the Osa, you are not necessarily getting your monies worth. And although most people are nice there’s an undercurrent of ‘screw the damn tourist’ that is not unusual in this kind of place. So Monteverde?? If you really want to go there, OK.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdneHKUaaZfcBcgJDZz3VulXNVX3oKr4LkVmKu_hQs9pTuqs4TweAlLqB2DF5NuGcSxU3Qv3XaDlxcXKsaf72joWaZiWzWaSz4YxEm_czj99m5z2GceWSCgWbVOSYRg8EJ4OCfeODwFygc/s1600/IMG_9331.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdneHKUaaZfcBcgJDZz3VulXNVX3oKr4LkVmKu_hQs9pTuqs4TweAlLqB2DF5NuGcSxU3Qv3XaDlxcXKsaf72joWaZiWzWaSz4YxEm_czj99m5z2GceWSCgWbVOSYRg8EJ4OCfeODwFygc/s320/IMG_9331.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Primary forest</td></tr>
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After two days in Monteverde it was back down the coast to the town of Manuel Antonio and the national park by that name. The Velo Bar Hotel was nice and the walks in the coastal forest were interesting. We did have some very nice views of Three Toed Sloths, one with a baby which was very cute. Manuel Antonio is also very much on the tourist trail and much of what applies for Monteverde applies here. But the beaches are broad and firm, with fine sand and a gentle surf break, very inviting.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgLKSAU_EBqeuhfAgUqDqZPiJmtjX-7B2aQuYVIXTNtmcUonIriaowfwbmqJsNQZVTnyP44-b3YH1c5SleNzqWQEiyNybbPfrsISZNkERVANiKQY9vEbVPAt5caP4PfcnmMiUm71pS0XrU/s1600/IMG_9226.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgLKSAU_EBqeuhfAgUqDqZPiJmtjX-7B2aQuYVIXTNtmcUonIriaowfwbmqJsNQZVTnyP44-b3YH1c5SleNzqWQEiyNybbPfrsISZNkERVANiKQY9vEbVPAt5caP4PfcnmMiUm71pS0XrU/s320/IMG_9226.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Green and Black Poison Dart Frog</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ0U7w0syysfUE9p6Bm_G3gjSykmWsNZiJeSYE35O4zljXi5ZPUiyFpKVgx1SBO1AuR8ZUFj3DQz4RliAqNvKqwcVyBOL5Ac8bNMJHfeNEzVSFhweSBy2am05AzE-a5b-jQdO_ki8aMrRG/s1600/IMG_9475.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ0U7w0syysfUE9p6Bm_G3gjSykmWsNZiJeSYE35O4zljXi5ZPUiyFpKVgx1SBO1AuR8ZUFj3DQz4RliAqNvKqwcVyBOL5Ac8bNMJHfeNEzVSFhweSBy2am05AzE-a5b-jQdO_ki8aMrRG/s320/IMG_9475.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Faced Capuchin</td></tr>
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Now we’re hanging out on the boat in the rain. Its been absolutely pouring the last twenty-four hours and may continue forever! Maybe not. But today will be a good day for a couple interior boat jobs. We’ll be here until about the 1st of December when a SevenStar freighter will be coming through. We’ll load up the boat on that sturdy, we hope, vessel and SHIP IT TO VICTORIA, BC! More on that next blog.<br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNFfkunJJOPyJ2nGhSpJ9a2Td1Tt6-ip4rX3USPQdbFqNC0k9CUVnU5-BC4AR2XR3RUe-Tnz1HxKcqIKisHLBzAHFIRzAETs_OLpteY4xoZgipimLTLplIMa1z50KBTgNfcSPyGHTh103u/s1600/IMG_9048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNFfkunJJOPyJ2nGhSpJ9a2Td1Tt6-ip4rX3USPQdbFqNC0k9CUVnU5-BC4AR2XR3RUe-Tnz1HxKcqIKisHLBzAHFIRzAETs_OLpteY4xoZgipimLTLplIMa1z50KBTgNfcSPyGHTh103u/s320/IMG_9048.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a tough day in Golfito</td></tr>
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Well not entirely “goofing off”. We do some boat project every day, maybe two. This may take an entire half hour of semi-intensive labor. Sometimes I actually break into a sweat. Like a couple days ago I rewired the electrical connections for the pressure water pump. This involved scrunching down under the galley sink, replacing four wire terminals and installing a new terminal block. It was hot. It was tight under there. I’ve been resting up ever since. But this morning I cleaned accumulated dirt off the dodger window canvas covers and then cleaned and wiped down the trusty Okuma Titus TG50W2 deep sea fishing reel I haven’t used this year. Note that these labors are usually accomplished in the early AM hours before temperatures begin to rise. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the dock at Fish Hook Marina</td></tr>
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By mid-afternoon, with a little luck, the morning cumulus has built into moderate thunderstorms that rain heavily and cool things down just right for a little nap. We usually take a morning walk, Janet wants to get in her 10,000 steps per day, and sometimes afternoons as well. Some afternoons we celebrate by having a big chocolate/vanila ice cream sunday between the two of us. This will hold us until at least 1700 when we decide that dinner must come with at least one ice cold Pilsen or Imperial beer. And one of the many things the Fish Hook Marina does quite well is serve a hearty meal and a very cold beer. Tonight we’ll watch at least the first innings of the World Series before hitting the sack. Have we been up later than 2130 since we arrived? I think not. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1jT_ug2okLUD5mNDkT2R1P43jD-b1oNtyA44CO2x7ICxjBxRLnT11fnreX6V3zajX_Shh8kkxpWL_oBiplwvLbNZ_s1WrbDQ30ba2QNingGJwvtep2r7V63IWzrwn0iGxk3YRIhvfrdrw/s1600/IMG_9042.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1jT_ug2okLUD5mNDkT2R1P43jD-b1oNtyA44CO2x7ICxjBxRLnT11fnreX6V3zajX_Shh8kkxpWL_oBiplwvLbNZ_s1WrbDQ30ba2QNingGJwvtep2r7V63IWzrwn0iGxk3YRIhvfrdrw/s320/IMG_9042.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">R&R at Fish Hook</td></tr>
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All in all life around here is very good. There are a couple extremely scuzzy ex-pat bars but we haven’t been tempted that direction yet. We may be a little bored at times but we have plenty to read thanks to our Kindles. Its quiet but we have have nice boat neighbors who are either fellow cruisers or professional sport fishermen. The marina staff is very friendly and efficient. Golfito is a center for heavy duty offshore sport fishing with the emphasis on Marlin and Rooster Fish. The ubiquitous Mahi Mahi and Yellow Fin Tuna are for eating. The other game fishing is almost entirely no-kill. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik47voKyAVmHWd7f4p4RAr2wREhs1Hc5viil96wpi1Qw2uYPZaHV-tZIL8f9vbU2oCgRpo2VkkWYpQHlRIfRRvJ73JZNLKgLww0Fs-UhcvqoV6utD0xRasyjTiamZ-v8fE0AReIyfaHXDm/s1600/IMG_9018.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik47voKyAVmHWd7f4p4RAr2wREhs1Hc5viil96wpi1Qw2uYPZaHV-tZIL8f9vbU2oCgRpo2VkkWYpQHlRIfRRvJ73JZNLKgLww0Fs-UhcvqoV6utD0xRasyjTiamZ-v8fE0AReIyfaHXDm/s320/IMG_9018.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our buddy Flocca, the Great Egret</td></tr>
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The town itself was once the headquarters for United Fruit Company in Costa Rica and they provided everything from employment to the hospital to schools, etc. When they pulled out in 1985 Golfito had big problems but the sport fishing industry has filled in some of the economic blank spaces. Its a third world place but nice third world. People are exceptionally friendly and there are few security problems. The two main marinas, Banana Bay and Fish Hook, are very professional.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flocca and friends fishing</td></tr>
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We have wild but almost tame Brown Pelicans and a Great Egret named Flocca that hang around the boat all day feeding off the Blue Runners that exist in large schools at the docks. That’s always entertaining. There are Scarlet Macaws and Howler Monkeys in the trees. A few days ago we took a very rough road up into the mountains above Golfito and went zip lining through the forest canopy 120 feet aloft, ten stages of zip lines for over 3000 meters with Squirrel Monkeys, White Faced Monkeys and lots of birds. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67RcHOKo0NGSAiL03Ps0S6kyGcJ06zAwOGVxL9MrhUkaji5VRTAngPZVLCqMxoSh5OyQLobRucZ1zXNBM31WvjVwD5PK5_GAVaNQ4a2J1urrZkwJmOcPEZAUCrHlOB4ingllEKHv7bnA4/s1600/IMGP0009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg67RcHOKo0NGSAiL03Ps0S6kyGcJ06zAwOGVxL9MrhUkaji5VRTAngPZVLCqMxoSh5OyQLobRucZ1zXNBM31WvjVwD5PK5_GAVaNQ4a2J1urrZkwJmOcPEZAUCrHlOB4ingllEKHv7bnA4/s320/IMGP0009.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gear down, Janet on short final, zip lining</td></tr>
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The next big plan is spend a few days at the very highly recommended Bosque del Cabo Lodge at the tip of the Osa Peninsula, the wildest part of Costa Rica, and hopefully have a some great wildlife viewing. If we can get lucky maybe Jaguar and Ocelot but certainly lots of great birds and beautiful country. There’s no tv at this lodge and no cell coverage and little internet but we will be back on the 8th to watch the election results. Can’t miss all that fun!</div>
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream<br />
<br /></div>
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Hi Everybody, </div>
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On a personal note Sir Fitzroy Maclean, Bt is one of my “ heros”. In the ‘30s Maclean was a young British diplomat in Paris and found the scene posh but boring. He got himself transferred to Moscow where things were more ‘interesting’, witnessed the Stalinist show trials, and did some very, very adventurous traveling around what was the almost totally forbidden eastern Soviet Union. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeoC3x3n9mEb34DcmaDF5yBsNzmb7apoNrJxGeotijLojUmnJzbMD3Sjx0I9_WON1DslOUztwk1oJn8hx-QT_czBBujRkHRn74JKftw7csfxjXY9JqReLRSjlJG5bcx0wAPxGx3kQYlRmZ/s1600/fitzroy-maclean-as-a-young-foreign-office-diplomat-in-moscow-1938-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeoC3x3n9mEb34DcmaDF5yBsNzmb7apoNrJxGeotijLojUmnJzbMD3Sjx0I9_WON1DslOUztwk1oJn8hx-QT_czBBujRkHRn74JKftw7csfxjXY9JqReLRSjlJG5bcx0wAPxGx3kQYlRmZ/s320/fitzroy-maclean-as-a-young-foreign-office-diplomat-in-moscow-1938-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maclean in Moscow</td></tr>
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When the war came he wasn’t allowed to enlist because of his diplomatic status but could resign his post to “go into politics”. This he did, got himself elected to Parliament and immediately enlisted in the army as a private. The army soon figured out what they had and commissioned him an officer. After a spell with the Long Range Desert Group he was asked to join the newly formed SAS (“Special Air Services”, I’ve always loved that acronym, almost as good as SOG, “Studies and Observations Group” ) and did his time. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKKa6dNM0B7KD4bEfZB1rZdTlWogtnKFmLP6qTaSDtSmbgyi3HxdDc9MILDIiDT9tWjxGEmSNAIaVOOKe3PXLK2uLPzCsO_Y7JajeceAHnM7jAWJu0X8VpoUbUWRbp99VqUg35NqNpJzs6/s1600/sas%252Bbeards%252Bjeep%252Blong%252Brange%252Bdesert%252Bgroup%252Bafrica%252Bvehicle%252Bkafiyeh%252Barab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="285" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKKa6dNM0B7KD4bEfZB1rZdTlWogtnKFmLP6qTaSDtSmbgyi3HxdDc9MILDIiDT9tWjxGEmSNAIaVOOKe3PXLK2uLPzCsO_Y7JajeceAHnM7jAWJu0X8VpoUbUWRbp99VqUg35NqNpJzs6/s320/sas%252Bbeards%252Bjeep%252Blong%252Brange%252Bdesert%252Bgroup%252Bafrica%252Bvehicle%252Bkafiyeh%252Barab.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SAS, the guy on the right </td></tr>
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He became the youngest Brigadier in British history and only one of two to go from Private to Major General. He was dropped into Yugoslavia to become Churchill’s personal emissary to Tito before it was even known for sure if Tito existed. He became a life long personal friend of Tito although he was a conservative member of Parliament for thirty years. In his great book “Eastern Approaches” he describes lying in a rocky ditch beside his burned out vehicle with a broken arm being bombed and strafed by the Luftwaffe as “a thoroughly uncomfortable afternoon”. I’ve always loved that as the epitome of macho British understatement. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwJ6d7w6C0RyRIReLwMILQfdxjEpHw2N0LMBFnjjGTgOpOWQEcaoqeObfi_HPHGr7j4DYt7-AayJiRDanOdc8rLWAMyKVy1L3wbZ6DA0LVWCR8jR63j-c1JancD-eOs-jAUeTUJ-odDYLY/s1600/maclean.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwJ6d7w6C0RyRIReLwMILQfdxjEpHw2N0LMBFnjjGTgOpOWQEcaoqeObfi_HPHGr7j4DYt7-AayJiRDanOdc8rLWAMyKVy1L3wbZ6DA0LVWCR8jR63j-c1JancD-eOs-jAUeTUJ-odDYLY/s320/maclean.jpg" width="217" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scottish Baronet</td></tr>
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So when I feel a bit put upon, when I feel things could be going a little more smoothly, when life seems to be on the rocky side I ask myself if I am thoroughly uncomfortable. The obvious answer is no, things could be a lot more uncomfortable. So get with it, quit whining and do whatever needs to be done.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYfy0zKCecHSgTr5tSovxeXxkYruYJw1iESJRu8tKTm_ZZOxkSeGPRskNU9L-gA-_Y_QoA_x1aYX30MOVb_5VHlfJm485HjDySCj0XTQmlasO0KKiptMRUgi8CSSh6xOGv6xAFfLMT-z2I/s1600/IMG_8980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYfy0zKCecHSgTr5tSovxeXxkYruYJw1iESJRu8tKTm_ZZOxkSeGPRskNU9L-gA-_Y_QoA_x1aYX30MOVb_5VHlfJm485HjDySCj0XTQmlasO0KKiptMRUgi8CSSh6xOGv6xAFfLMT-z2I/s320/IMG_8980.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Departing Panama City</td></tr>
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We left our mooring at Balboa Yacht Club 0700 on the 11th. The fridge was working sometimes. The forecast was for light air on the nose for our final destination of Golfito, Costa Rica. And that held pretty well until Punta Mala where there was supposed to be a nice following current of up to three knots. Of course a current around a cape can lead to a disturbed sea but what we got was one of the most ‘disturbed seas’ I’ve ever seen for the entire 60nm coast of the Peninsula de Azuro and well beyond. Nothing dangerous, there was no wind but about a six foot sea from all directions at once and seeming to come into conjunction at our exact position all night long. A trifle uncomfortable. And of course at about 0715, after twenty four hours of motoring, our super reliable Yanmar engine smoothly lost RPM to zero and quit. Hmmmm……a diesel needs two things, air and fuel…..seemed to be plenty of air about, must be the FUEL! So we’re having fun banging around in this ridiculous sea after a hot night and I start tearing into our spiffy Racor primary fuel filter system which proved to be full of gunk. Installed new filter element, primed the engine and it ran, for about five seconds. Further tearing into the system proved that no fuel was getting to the gunked up filter. Ah, hah, is fuel getting out of the tank? Got to the tank outlet, took the flared copper fuel line off the tank valve, re-opened the valve, and nothing came out, zero! I knew there was plenty of fuel in that tank. Got a thin stiff stainless steel wire and ran it up the tank valve, a little fuel came out and a whole bunch of nasty fibrous gunk. Ran the wire back and forth and wonderful, (maybe) clean diesel started flowing smoothly. Put things back together, bled the system again and started up the trusty beast. Whoppee! It ran. And it continued to run. Sweet.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7TWnPmB6aHgIUcn1nDwviTeFanYNYZ8Lyu4QZuu82Tezsm6w1-62hvRo8o9cVP-BuXOJkKNbSrqIq-2RNBf6T5BLeSO98884jgPqQFYMgQNEX3uPEj1sn33kWFPUGuRfMOrpgZfKXoIo/s1600/IMG_0560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7TWnPmB6aHgIUcn1nDwviTeFanYNYZ8Lyu4QZuu82Tezsm6w1-62hvRo8o9cVP-BuXOJkKNbSrqIq-2RNBf6T5BLeSO98884jgPqQFYMgQNEX3uPEj1sn33kWFPUGuRfMOrpgZfKXoIo/s320/IMG_0560.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Janet in her comfy 'spot'.</td></tr>
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So we proceeded on to Isla Rancheria, 33 hours and twenty minutes to cover 215 nm motoring the entire way. But the SE anchorage at Isla Rancheria is lovely and we had it totally to ourselves. No other boats, not even a light in sight at sea or ashore the two days we spent at anchor. I did a long snorkel and a little walk on the jungle fringed beach. We had a light breeze the first night and it was cool enough. The second night there was no breeze. And out came the no-see-ums! Next morning we woke up to hundreds of no-see-um bites all over. A complete full body coverage. I thought at first I had got them ashore, and I probably got some, but Janet had not gone ashore and she’s almost as bad as me. Oh well, we look like a couple of spotted pox sufferers but it isn’t fatal and they’ll go away in a week. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidf35oWmQe-zJOxIN45E6ZeILMiI0myYdYo7Upypi6LjLTJzRJVveEvXz7aMEWnRgG_7amDP-cjaY0lp8vID7B1rFlxtNGLtsl_nGurYrfWYvW4teDSlPApefcqHb5LcSvROcnOn_bIQPX/s1600/IMG_9002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidf35oWmQe-zJOxIN45E6ZeILMiI0myYdYo7Upypi6LjLTJzRJVveEvXz7aMEWnRgG_7amDP-cjaY0lp8vID7B1rFlxtNGLtsl_nGurYrfWYvW4teDSlPApefcqHb5LcSvROcnOn_bIQPX/s320/IMG_9002.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Isla Rancheria, SE anchorage. </td></tr>
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From Isla Rancheria we had about 120 nm to Golfito and I figured 20 hours enroute. Guess again, another confused night at sea, less sea running but more wind directly on the nose and our speeds were down to three or fours knots all night. Things smoothed out entering the beautiful Golfo Dulce and we got into Golfito after almost exactly twenty four hours at sea. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxUYPwKNOKsLYBH5_LBGEPBj0zLkSqZQtjo35ev4l7YSF43JnXGvtD7ct3B_Fm0FhRcwvukyBu1NTzbovi60FysQ52r-8DD4hPoFv-QnJaa6ilYZ0la9yyFMYrQ-64rRQXIKMJUSiItYWJ/s1600/IMG_9014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxUYPwKNOKsLYBH5_LBGEPBj0zLkSqZQtjo35ev4l7YSF43JnXGvtD7ct3B_Fm0FhRcwvukyBu1NTzbovi60FysQ52r-8DD4hPoFv-QnJaa6ilYZ0la9yyFMYrQ-64rRQXIKMJUSiItYWJ/s320/IMG_9014.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering Golfito</td></tr>
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Golfito seems very nice so far. We’re at Fish Hook Marina which is comfy and welcoming. We have pleasant boat neighbors and there are tame Pelicans and Egrets around the docks. There are Scarlet Macaws and Howler Monkeys in the trees. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUwK5-W4I4nnD4lKenb8rsh82NwS76SvLkKuLhts1hnla6kRMTEEBhEWw26htDecZR_u9vVgOPv8DTGFBDHozqR8FOhj-N4HZfN4nAA5kFAhYrwbWXSFUdu-6SGVWgdAhvzPfUIdE18j_/s1600/IMG_9015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUwK5-W4I4nnD4lKenb8rsh82NwS76SvLkKuLhts1hnla6kRMTEEBhEWw26htDecZR_u9vVgOPv8DTGFBDHozqR8FOhj-N4HZfN4nAA5kFAhYrwbWXSFUdu-6SGVWgdAhvzPfUIdE18j_/s320/IMG_9015.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish Hook Marina</td></tr>
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We got checked into Costa Rica and have seen a little of the town. I cleaned out fuel filter assemblies and changed elements on both filters this morning. I had left the tank full when we were home and didn’t expect much growth in the fuel from a full tank. Either there is a lot of bacterial growth in the tank in this climate or we got some bad fuel at Balboa when we tanked up. I doubt the bad fuel, they’re too busy for that kind of thing to be likely. I’m just happy things seem not to have gotten any worse and hopefully most of the bad stuff got shaken out of the tank in those rough conditions. We were able to run over thirty hours after I unclogged things.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH9INzKuz6VAVyoDRwHisBNVD-Rnrc65cKhr5QaEaHG-qXAcu_9zOBXr9sD3shA356heq63B1zLcmvrA-Ljk7wCqDmlCp9Vfii49PQEnv-aqJ4IpBCdVetIM3DBofB4QwGweWeNV7rwkq1/s1600/IMG_9027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH9INzKuz6VAVyoDRwHisBNVD-Rnrc65cKhr5QaEaHG-qXAcu_9zOBXr9sD3shA356heq63B1zLcmvrA-Ljk7wCqDmlCp9Vfii49PQEnv-aqJ4IpBCdVetIM3DBofB4QwGweWeNV7rwkq1/s320/IMG_9027.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After action clean up.</td></tr>
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So we’re here for at least a month. We have some travels planned around Costa Rica so please stay tuned. And “Eastern Approaches” by Fitzroy Maclean is a great read. Give it a try and then maybe his biography of Tito, a much different book but also very good.<br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream</div>
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We’re back in the Pacific! Home waters. Balboa would be happy, the sea does appear to be very ‘pacific’ this morning.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyCpfyexo8VI6EBwkUXlEz1rWFOO0hK2qT3LW4jgkQlVeorS_ejZLN7k-38B6QzenJ6l33OBaCDvbnZgpuaEaANo_Qz-l3Y0yydwIH4ExF8Be97WCmHB64eXvcgz5b3o4IEZLZ5NyOnrCY/s1600/IMG_0528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyCpfyexo8VI6EBwkUXlEz1rWFOO0hK2qT3LW4jgkQlVeorS_ejZLN7k-38B6QzenJ6l33OBaCDvbnZgpuaEaANo_Qz-l3Y0yydwIH4ExF8Be97WCmHB64eXvcgz5b3o4IEZLZ5NyOnrCY/s320/IMG_0528.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX6gmhhY-sre3r9X-F2ObWyQVFkVP2xMTJCU3jqRHTT-pUzOPrQQWfW9AR4PBH3Ib-9AyiiteIuH0QhdCLHovzmL7j-zV6qbAZGFXNhQJuFdwtk52mDE_v1GsgIeJG6K0ACUTgKP2PFKyT/s1600/IMG_8772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX6gmhhY-sre3r9X-F2ObWyQVFkVP2xMTJCU3jqRHTT-pUzOPrQQWfW9AR4PBH3Ib-9AyiiteIuH0QhdCLHovzmL7j-zV6qbAZGFXNhQJuFdwtk52mDE_v1GsgIeJG6K0ACUTgKP2PFKyT/s320/IMG_8772.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shelter Bay Marina</td></tr>
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We arrived back at Shelter Bay Marina, where we had left the boat last spring, as scheduled on the 30th of September. The boat appeared to have been well cared for and the work I had requested was done or as nearly done as could be done before launch. I installed some new zincs and checked out systems (everything seemed to be working) and we were ready. Next day, right on time which is a minor miracle in Panama, we were in the travel lift and then back in the water. All went very well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir-Hfn578tFsFQs_cbmUIUBttKAeVRftF7Fj2ihqORADZ9WVhouMl7MsK5H_PwgQf9YkluYAFx9KRacVXwAdB8LwGVqvmV8t3FWgmqFNW2N_r0RaCLaFUoqjHQTPp1t6KqCmX9E8in5eDT/s1600/IMG_8775.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir-Hfn578tFsFQs_cbmUIUBttKAeVRftF7Fj2ihqORADZ9WVhouMl7MsK5H_PwgQf9YkluYAFx9KRacVXwAdB8LwGVqvmV8t3FWgmqFNW2N_r0RaCLaFUoqjHQTPp1t6KqCmX9E8in5eDT/s320/IMG_8775.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I trust these guys to haul me aloft?</td></tr>
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One can arrange their own canal transit but most people use an agent to handle the arrangements and formalities. We used Erick Galvez of Centenario Consultant Agency. He proved to very helpful in many ways and is highly recommended. Through the agent the canal authority measures a boat and then schedules transit. We wanted the 7th and 8th of October and that’s what we were assigned. We had a few days to relax, get the boat in shape and wait for our crew to arrive. The one thing that proved a real pain was, and of this date still is, refrigeration. The damn fridge would not fridge. Or at least it would fridge and then not fridge. At Shelter Bay “Greg, the engine whisperer” is the systems and engine guru and we spent about four days struggling with this beast. Over time we thought it was running just right (at last!) and then it would fail after a few hours. When we finally departed Shelter Bay it had been working for a whole day straight. Guess what, it wasn’t working this morning. I got it cooling again but I have no faith it’ll be working tonight. Despite all that I learned a lot from Greg who is a good guy, he’s not to blame for this problem, and he’s another guy we recommend. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwr5u-eboMmD3CKtAF0YhiZm8hEZz42WGtaP-Cdy0sGfkoYcH-pHYNut6uReqrlfNVS6kBWvJvS3keVFrD_J3Gfl40KbunMFCrAn79JEWDb-MoIutrfDMDqsTmItnac74cPhyphenhyphenGzPFks08U/s1600/IMG_0529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwr5u-eboMmD3CKtAF0YhiZm8hEZz42WGtaP-Cdy0sGfkoYcH-pHYNut6uReqrlfNVS6kBWvJvS3keVFrD_J3Gfl40KbunMFCrAn79JEWDb-MoIutrfDMDqsTmItnac74cPhyphenhyphenGzPFks08U/s320/IMG_0529.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marina club house</td></tr>
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Shelter Bay Marina itself is a good marina in a very secure location and strategically located to begin or end a canal transit. The docks are good and water and electricity are reliable. There are good shore facilities and a nice bar, pool and restaurant. We used the marina hotel rooms for a couple nights and for our crew when they arrived. They were comfortable and quiet. Shelter Bay was a very decent place. John Halley, the marina manager does a good job. Edwin Chavez, the yard manager, was efficient and effective. All in all we had a good experience at Shelter Bay and I think boats transiting the canal should not hesitate to use the marina. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHiC4M3zVKuVBEjGuw50NnNHP61StfxxFwMa4jCQfrsdaZCkVmHIszFPMnYAXmsHwI1Tfq5-r4TGAr611MwwwGHilflXiJfV9Ntl-6L8x-9QJnGusgLCWOVok09D9WxfNftJnDbTsdTeUX/s1600/IMG_0535.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHiC4M3zVKuVBEjGuw50NnNHP61StfxxFwMa4jCQfrsdaZCkVmHIszFPMnYAXmsHwI1Tfq5-r4TGAr611MwwwGHilflXiJfV9Ntl-6L8x-9QJnGusgLCWOVok09D9WxfNftJnDbTsdTeUX/s320/IMG_0535.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Susan & Jim Tighe, Janet, Scott DeVries, John Powers</td></tr>
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So our crew arrived the the 6th as planned. The canal authorities require a skipper and at least four line handlers. We had John Powers who’s a good friend from the Pacific days, my nephew Scott DeVries and Jim and Susan Tighe who are Janet’s sister and her husband. We had been told to take the boat across the bay to the “flats” anchorage area at 1300 on the 7th and contact Christobol signal station to schedule the departure which should be about 1500. At 1300 we arrived and talked with Christobol and were told to expect our “advisor” (our canal pilot) at 1545. The advisor actually arrived at about 1730 and we were off to the Gatun locks to start the transit. This would be a night passage through this first set of locks and then to an anchorage just inside the Gatun Lake. We would be rafted up to another boat, “Offshore Lady” a drop dead gorgeous Merritt 72 sport fisherman, in a center position with a large container ship and tourist ferry ahead of us in the same chamber. Our agent supplied the required gear which was four 125 ft lines not less than 7/8” in diameter and eight large white rubber fenders. In this case we tied up with the Merritt on our port side and used our lines to keep us centered on starboard. The Merritt kept us both in the center from the port side with their lines. We ended up using this arrangement through all the locks during the transit and it made life easier for both boats.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjv3zVx09m9g8bU47h4KmNyjSfyU8QIrerAqkRH8NNF8lshmx4r4_cwjk8EY2gkx4SDmRe7TTayF3t5WWhkEyZHHk-ID1HK-8dxywQP7oVBVZ2Z12PdcOdKyMgSD77Vsz0bnHWcaYher4T/s1600/IMG_8941.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjv3zVx09m9g8bU47h4KmNyjSfyU8QIrerAqkRH8NNF8lshmx4r4_cwjk8EY2gkx4SDmRe7TTayF3t5WWhkEyZHHk-ID1HK-8dxywQP7oVBVZ2Z12PdcOdKyMgSD77Vsz0bnHWcaYher4T/s320/IMG_8941.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our lock partners for Gatun</td></tr>
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The passage through the first chamber went well and line handling was a task that we learned well enough. The canal shore staff throws a light line with a monkey fist from the lock walls and we tied that to our main lines and they would haul them to cleats on the lock wall. Then we would take in slack as the boat rose in the Atlantic side locks and slacked off as we descended down the Pacific locks. There was some of the expected turbulence as water entered or exited the locks but not as much as we expected. We had no problems maintaining position in the lock. It is a little interesting following a large ship at close quarters in the locks going up and being ahead of the ship in the locks going down. The worst case scenario would be if a lock door failed but so far that has never happened. Also interesting that the steel doors and concrete locks are all the originals that have been in constant use for more than one hundred years!We passed out of the Gatun locks and were directed to a mooring about a mile inside the lake where we spent a quiet night.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Night transit, Gatun locks</td></tr>
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Next morning our new advisor was supposed to arrive at 0800 and arrived fifteen minutes early! Off we went across Gatun lake which when it was created by damning the Chagos river was the largest man made lake in the world behind the largest damn ever built feeding water to the locks, the largest concrete structures ever built! I believe the man made lake is still the third largest in the world and the other structures are pretty darn impressive to this day.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shipping in Lake Gatun</td></tr>
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The shoreline of the the vast lake is completely undeveloped and solid jungle as far as can be seen. We held to a well marked channel with a major vessel coming the opposite direction fairly often. From there it was through the famous Gaillard Cut, the highest terrain along the route. We were scheduled to arrive at the first Pacific side locks, the Pedro Miguel Locks, at 1155. We rafted up again with Offshore Lady to pass through the locks and also through the small Miraflores Lake to the Milaflores Locks. By this time we were getting to be old hands at this business. And we were only a little amazed when the last lock doors opened and we were back in the pacific after about seven years. Home at last? Closer at least.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the Gaillard Cut</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shore line handlers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the Mirafloraes locks</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Canal cable handling locomotive, usually about 8 per large vessel</td></tr>
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I think this was a fairly typical Panama Canal transit for a cruising yacht. There were no unpleasant surprises. The timing, once our advisor arrived the first afternoon, was spot on. Both advisors were very nice guys, very knowledgable and spoke good English. The weather could not have been better given the prevailing climate. Most of the time we had some cloud cover to cut the heat and a breeze. We had a little rain the second morning moving across the lake but it was over by the time we got to the locks. <br />
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We dropped our advisor just past the Bridge of the Americas and were almost immediately in the mooring field for the Balboa Yacht Club. The club launch showed us a mooring, we picked it up, grabbed our stuff for a night and went ashore on the Pacific side of Panama. Mission accomplished! Having treated ourselves to a hotel room, actually Jim and Susan treated us to a hotel room, we’re now comfy and air conditioned and in internet contact with endless hot showers and time to contemplate our next move. Tonight that means social time and a cold libation. Tomorrow that means starting to work our way towards CostaRica. It’ll be a couple days before we actually depart but that’s our next move.<br />
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Please stay tuned. Love to all!<br />
<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream<div class="blogger-post-footer"><script type="text/javascript">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2_yYF4rln2MEo8guX8ymoXXW0MEYf1pkxuXEU-afpvJ_ZgvuCBj_FwGnLzkyXB3JUY9YlbW7PekbXsZ7jBH2qgcAcx4qMRJPz2nhtZNmMljfKoiun7ISvvCxbO1WNajs6r7leUClEB1aa/s1600/IMG_8561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2_yYF4rln2MEo8guX8ymoXXW0MEYf1pkxuXEU-afpvJ_ZgvuCBj_FwGnLzkyXB3JUY9YlbW7PekbXsZ7jBH2qgcAcx4qMRJPz2nhtZNmMljfKoiun7ISvvCxbO1WNajs6r7leUClEB1aa/s320/IMG_8561.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Departing Cartagena</td></tr>
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Thump, thump, thump, THUMP, bang, bang, bang, Bang, BANG, SNAP!! To quote Janet, “What the ——!!"</div>
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Ah yes friends, the sounds of something nasty breaking on a boat. Immediate loss of propulsion although the engine is running fine. So what do you think? Transmission? That was my assumption, never having had complete faith in the Hurth ZF-15 system since we broke one heading up the coast of Northern California many years ago. But, what the——, it doesn’t really matter when you’ve no way to fix it at sea. This pleasant little event occurred on the way to Linton Bay Marina from the San Blas Islands of Panama about three forty-five on a rather choppy but light wind afternoon. So we got up sail, and the wind died. Then the wind filled in on the nose. We started tacking along the coast towards the narrow channel leading to Linton Bay from the east. We got ahold of Adam Baitel the marina manager using the SAT phone and he made arrangements to tow us in when we got close. The wind finally veared around to the north. It got very dark. It rained. We were able to clear the last islands into the channel without more tacking. A panga and Adam in a skiff met us and towed us into an anchorage for the night and to a slip the next morning. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtlmbszGAnjIM1mw1s5UtQltA5RwwW_LDVDE2AHEt3XnUxXwYDPUicIX2ZSeGNh2IzcC6kdDIc7HRfRf6BD1jfvYQ3NHjpJE_ABVyR7IHckYyQuPKCZQLq4nnOv86kY410_VtxmUwM4LeT/s1600/IMG_0450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtlmbszGAnjIM1mw1s5UtQltA5RwwW_LDVDE2AHEt3XnUxXwYDPUicIX2ZSeGNh2IzcC6kdDIc7HRfRf6BD1jfvYQ3NHjpJE_ABVyR7IHckYyQuPKCZQLq4nnOv86kY410_VtxmUwM4LeT/s320/IMG_0450.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hauled out a Linton Bay Marina</td></tr>
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So it wasn’t the transmission. The propellor shaft, a 35mm diameter stainless steel shaft, had broken cleanly in half just where it exits the tunnel on the transmission v-drive. Pretty amazing IMHO. No impacts, no sign of external damage. The mechanic at Linton Bay was of the opinion that it had been an original manufacturing defect and it just finally broke after thirty years of use. That’s as good an argument as any. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQPkVQzdcBxtsJW6tTSiWiwwHWUvwy-naddtxilJLI634d9uMAw-A_TMAdgOkwsD32sIymjdznoxd6ia58geVFSm0DuaX-J1yjk8Pox0euCbGm1xPnplm1YGkMQz6KN5p5HYBeMMU_bmkt/s1600/P1010034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQPkVQzdcBxtsJW6tTSiWiwwHWUvwy-naddtxilJLI634d9uMAw-A_TMAdgOkwsD32sIymjdznoxd6ia58geVFSm0DuaX-J1yjk8Pox0euCbGm1xPnplm1YGkMQz6KN5p5HYBeMMU_bmkt/s320/P1010034.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">160 ton travel lift at Linton Bay</td></tr>
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We had departed Cartagena after a nice enough stay. Cartagena has a great reputation as an exotic and lovely city. Sorry to say we were not that impressed. It was ‘OK’. It was a decent stop on the way across the southern Caribbean but in our opinion not a destination in itself. The best time we had was going out with Dave Elbow and his son and son’s staff for an evening. Dave is a fellow NWA retired pilot, fellow anchorage pilot, four engine driver extraordinaire, and Bon Vivant! Thanks Dave, for a nice evening.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKsIPb5SzzjOqzigxczxkNAeCAOSgDFwB-kaxvv9mlZzGC4a-gRTjq5x_l5V31LnpFSgC9Z3INzO8A9UHkvSujYbMjp4ZFCn0Gk5zF_S2wVwbuRgcrnwVeZwBcB_SKTTtHfkq7aM8GcPNZ/s1600/IMG_0442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKsIPb5SzzjOqzigxczxkNAeCAOSgDFwB-kaxvv9mlZzGC4a-gRTjq5x_l5V31LnpFSgC9Z3INzO8A9UHkvSujYbMjp4ZFCn0Gk5zF_S2wVwbuRgcrnwVeZwBcB_SKTTtHfkq7aM8GcPNZ/s320/IMG_0442.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Dave, son and friends in Cartagena</td></tr>
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So we left Cartagena in very light conditions and motored the entire way to the Coco Banderas Cays in the San Blas Islands of Panama, 187 nm. Lovely anchorage in the Banderas. Beautiful little palm tree islands with white sandy beaches. No development. The San Blas are the home of the Kuna Indians and the Kunas have a semi-independent arrangement with the central government of Panama. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBCs49sV7gOYPI5S6Rma108DlJtGXxEYS5jPRYkXwPgA73Ry04bt8A8vrFZV2qeDfI9MFWf88jgd3-sbhzwPK9oLhEHKNJEQYs36sWNZ1oTJb6xQ7Gb16ZdGGh6cJofnDBM1AqlYcjnGJg/s1600/IMG_8576.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBCs49sV7gOYPI5S6Rma108DlJtGXxEYS5jPRYkXwPgA73Ry04bt8A8vrFZV2qeDfI9MFWf88jgd3-sbhzwPK9oLhEHKNJEQYs36sWNZ1oTJb6xQ7Gb16ZdGGh6cJofnDBM1AqlYcjnGJg/s320/IMG_8576.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Blas anchorage</td></tr>
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They maintain a very traditional culture and are famous for their intensely colorful embroidered appliqué “molas” which are truly lovely. So we had Kunas in their canoes stopping by every day to sell us molas and lobster, fish, coconuts, etc, etc. Very sweet and very interesting people. The whole Kuna/Panama arrangement is complicated but we would recommend the San Blas to anyone going that way. We only spent a week, people spend years cruising the San Blas.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mola buying</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguuEB0F5jPFxARUx-FSEJcYPs4PykawqbxtvXQjVpJgCcpBrKj2IGpIjfWnuZIVdF-KWHnaeKprzIGb7Rprru4vvRt3nmaEDYhSo9NObVObWdRa0hdyBDq8Cv88HMlc_7HFKXzMyejHRc7/s1600/IMG_8644.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguuEB0F5jPFxARUx-FSEJcYPs4PykawqbxtvXQjVpJgCcpBrKj2IGpIjfWnuZIVdF-KWHnaeKprzIGb7Rprru4vvRt3nmaEDYhSo9NObVObWdRa0hdyBDq8Cv88HMlc_7HFKXzMyejHRc7/s320/IMG_8644.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kunas</td></tr>
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From the San Blas we were heading to Linton Bay Marina to visit Felipe Serrano, an old friend who I saw last saw when we flew together in Greece in 1985. Felipe has his boat currently hauled out a Linton Bay doing a bottom job and other work. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCGbETrZ7-k8CNkh6rxUPj4j_tiy2tT3t_fJX_0ZIP2Fna1H0hHJO2rNrEEkR9l7smGXaob5kFyQhAFxKiavDj_QgshKdnSuHc4AhKX3KBObHP_UWLr-JK4k3qlWlIiXTXHhQwt7zGvzJ-/s1600/P1010024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCGbETrZ7-k8CNkh6rxUPj4j_tiy2tT3t_fJX_0ZIP2Fna1H0hHJO2rNrEEkR9l7smGXaob5kFyQhAFxKiavDj_QgshKdnSuHc4AhKX3KBObHP_UWLr-JK4k3qlWlIiXTXHhQwt7zGvzJ-/s320/P1010024.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Felipe Serrano</td></tr>
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Linton Bay is a new marina with very nice new docks and a big new travel lift. They have very big plans for development and a great location. The other amenities haven’t come yet but they got us hauled and their maintenance staff was very helpful and competent. They actually had another 35mm shaft in stock. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYZXY29gHpWdNmsTkY77dJ4AfDNZRcMDK4Yk6lwBaSnrBeY3yEJ57ccOOq1lscLr9fI9CK4S9ClLUKNfFD4fPkAHjV_ENnWwOIw6QO99gav304Z8vE8aYt8xSs78Vor1BgDjzOtjfcBtMJ/s1600/IMG_0446.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYZXY29gHpWdNmsTkY77dJ4AfDNZRcMDK4Yk6lwBaSnrBeY3yEJ57ccOOq1lscLr9fI9CK4S9ClLUKNfFD4fPkAHjV_ENnWwOIw6QO99gav304Z8vE8aYt8xSs78Vor1BgDjzOtjfcBtMJ/s320/IMG_0446.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look closely, the stub of the shaft is visible to the left of the green hose.</td></tr>
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Of course it had to be cut to length and machined to fit our MaxProp and the transmission coupling. We got the prop disassembled and the shaft out (in two pieces of course) and got everything machined and back together in a week. It coulda been worse and it coulda been a lot more expensive. Rather than life on the hard with no facilities available we stayed at a nearby guest house, the “Bamboo Guest House” run by a nice German couple and were a lot more comfortable than we would have been on the boat. The staff at Linton Bay Marina all proved to be very friendly and helpful. Other than the machining, I could have done this work myself, I’ve done it before, but having a professional to work with was reassuring and we did well together. The run from Linton Bay to our present location was about thirty miles and things seem to be running very smoothly. With a little luck this repair will be permanent.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVWWJp7t4zRRYi2TsvEwnHKUIIp2Sj_pn8ObtxYf6o_45asS2-dhXO1MAUvq483WblgaeezkHa1SdDQc3PoZXDjcu8mnhMSpFBRz0Q1MtQLqEaEh66a995cyQPgylLFhyphenhyphenTzENJAY3i9MYC/s1600/P1010001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVWWJp7t4zRRYi2TsvEwnHKUIIp2Sj_pn8ObtxYf6o_45asS2-dhXO1MAUvq483WblgaeezkHa1SdDQc3PoZXDjcu8mnhMSpFBRz0Q1MtQLqEaEh66a995cyQPgylLFhyphenhyphenTzENJAY3i9MYC/s320/P1010001.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flamencio and crew</td></tr>
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So our present location is Shelter Bay Marina, just inside the breakwater at the entrance bay to the Atlantic side of Panama canal. We said goodbye to Felipe and our new friends at Linton and made it here in five hours. Shelter Bay is a very isolated spot but also a very full service marina with just about every comfort. We have nice new friends, Kenny and Betsy Linn, who we met in the San Blas and who are following a similar path, very near us here in the marina. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQhR_EssohYNPb7DPLN3oDHK6JjUHYfEoMXbwJPyqNRehSo5C0q18uVERrnRqvoowI6vGY_Q0tBmnLefx3FGvKnvwAqKCXo2ADSbNXvz50_jtMA-GG8KS3jEfWH9udUQI-lW2sWRTNWxTC/s1600/IMG_8651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQhR_EssohYNPb7DPLN3oDHK6JjUHYfEoMXbwJPyqNRehSo5C0q18uVERrnRqvoowI6vGY_Q0tBmnLefx3FGvKnvwAqKCXo2ADSbNXvz50_jtMA-GG8KS3jEfWH9udUQI-lW2sWRTNWxTC/s320/IMG_8651.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kenny and Betsy Linn</td></tr>
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Tomorrow morning, the twenty-third, we haul out at 0800 and by afternoon we should be at the Crown plaza at the Panama City Airport. Tuesday we fly home via Atlanta and San Francisco. Its been quite a season of sailing and travel. I’ll recap and offer some comments in the next blog after we get home. Wish us a smooth trip!<br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream</div>
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Hi Everybody,</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEgwUkueemzhD9OJe1azbv5w4wdzwe-AQLcp9aEG5baZuAuB8as5jUmVe9YX9LIHMX1vHjH1sDXGsaWL7c_b0qRxPIppYAtvOfJXaoOWBCVG9gzziG96zxtIlz3KgXM7q1JocQvJOYZQUG/s1600/IMG_8436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEgwUkueemzhD9OJe1azbv5w4wdzwe-AQLcp9aEG5baZuAuB8as5jUmVe9YX9LIHMX1vHjH1sDXGsaWL7c_b0qRxPIppYAtvOfJXaoOWBCVG9gzziG96zxtIlz3KgXM7q1JocQvJOYZQUG/s320/IMG_8436.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the size of that new inner turnbuckle</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbMQY9bekBTmDI6AqMAps0voMGU_SgR-B0hMpM1Qk9ZeiKbRiTJemB66nkPyKr0s373m1cH31c3EisHD40c6qlTyBBmYiIlIBAafS2IYevHwQ9qwF0c37bRlp1pF80qxJlAFK37E2a5tAB/s1600/IMG_8433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>The installation of the new lower shrouds went well. After paying the exorbitant shipping fees I had a dread that something wouldn’t be right, that some dimension would be incorrect. Not so, everything is as it should be and Lennart “Lelle” Davidson, the rigger in Bonaire, proved to be a guy who knows his stuff. We got the rig slackened up, the new lowers installed and the rig retuned in about two hours. Everything looked good and the voyage to Cartagena proved that, so far at least, its pretty much the way I want it. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbMQY9bekBTmDI6AqMAps0voMGU_SgR-B0hMpM1Qk9ZeiKbRiTJemB66nkPyKr0s373m1cH31c3EisHD40c6qlTyBBmYiIlIBAafS2IYevHwQ9qwF0c37bRlp1pF80qxJlAFK37E2a5tAB/s1600/IMG_8433.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbMQY9bekBTmDI6AqMAps0voMGU_SgR-B0hMpM1Qk9ZeiKbRiTJemB66nkPyKr0s373m1cH31c3EisHD40c6qlTyBBmYiIlIBAafS2IYevHwQ9qwF0c37bRlp1pF80qxJlAFK37E2a5tAB/s320/IMG_8433.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lelle has tougher feet than me!</td></tr>
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We departed Bonaire with some sadness. The people at Wannadive had become friends and we had some good times with them. Between Janet and I we did eighty-five dives on Bonaire and felt it really was an excellent dive destination. True, there were no real mind blowing once in a lifetime dives. Not that we saw anyway. However, there are many, many miles of easily accessible and quite excellent reef with a great variety of reef fishes, coral, sponges and about any kind of life you might expect to find in a healthy tropical reef system. The large Tarpon we saw on almost every dive would let us get quite close. There were as many as seventeen around us on one dive. It is a good place and we’d recommend it for a dive trip. We also had fun with the staff at the marina restaurant and bar and they were nice people</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2BiYGX9AF34qbLoiERV2k0-jLwgOnfsk6bvLK7GqNze_GWomTykIkyV8_9CvAShmtT2CoJTdEyffsEBcmw-L8ZGpik4vJjhhmkGb44aJ2aPCzrMUZXdkJjs3dB8jtsWjMJO1Sh-e_tBr2/s1600/IMG_8442.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2BiYGX9AF34qbLoiERV2k0-jLwgOnfsk6bvLK7GqNze_GWomTykIkyV8_9CvAShmtT2CoJTdEyffsEBcmw-L8ZGpik4vJjhhmkGb44aJ2aPCzrMUZXdkJjs3dB8jtsWjMJO1Sh-e_tBr2/s320/IMG_8442.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First view of Cartagena through the haze</td></tr>
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But this season has been about moving west and after seven weeks in Bonaire it was time to resume. We did a non-stop to Cartagena. 510 nautical miles in 77 hours, lines off at Harbour Village Marina to lines on at Club de Pesca Marina in Cartagena. We sailed the first two days in moderate conditions and motored the last due to light air, laziness and the desire to get into port during daytime. Rounding Punta Gallinas, the “Cape Horn of the Caribbean”, in those conditions was no problem although there were some interesting seas. It was easy to see how in gale conditions you would not want to be anywhere near the area. So we made it to Cartagena with no problems and no breakages and we’re comfy and secure at the rather classy Club de Pesca Marina</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4qDOFNcXIlRuRMlZAfFkpkt4PW4suPQ4IoGNmOiPYvulpF-ej5G-LhuFWUd38UrkgyYEoVdFYiaAn0c0xw0nrGqPSU2Ybdb_AloBWdR5I0ATJXMRnjhxcOmmBispUpntYhWJ9Ts04t2LS/s1600/IMG_8473.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4qDOFNcXIlRuRMlZAfFkpkt4PW4suPQ4IoGNmOiPYvulpF-ej5G-LhuFWUd38UrkgyYEoVdFYiaAn0c0xw0nrGqPSU2Ybdb_AloBWdR5I0ATJXMRnjhxcOmmBispUpntYhWJ9Ts04t2LS/s320/IMG_8473.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice equestrian monument to Bolivar</td></tr>
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Its hot and humid and very hazy although there were some thunderstorms in the area yesterday which seems to clear things out a little. There seem to be no mozzies here at the marina which is nice for a change. What we’ve seen so far of this city has been interesting but not world class wonderful. The harbor area of Boca Grande and Santa Mari is posh Miami Beach style high rise. El central is the old city of Cartagena which dates back to the 16th century. We’ve done some exploring around and we have a lot more to do. So far we are underwhelmed by the old city, it’s too touristy and not as picturesque as its touted to be. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxUf2fha56Gr4DA-Yz2aSOENc6zHI9eog0iIz6ktE-gmg7YMvFiw0XdgtgU98_sJT5v63hvxUUuiF56c9a5Xl0ZK_xKCNXWpT1m-kYHfsu7NPUIkaK51z4496yY9wl21meZudytyRfcE2l/s1600/IMG_8466.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxUf2fha56Gr4DA-Yz2aSOENc6zHI9eog0iIz6ktE-gmg7YMvFiw0XdgtgU98_sJT5v63hvxUUuiF56c9a5Xl0ZK_xKCNXWpT1m-kYHfsu7NPUIkaK51z4496yY9wl21meZudytyRfcE2l/s320/IMG_8466.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Central street scene</td></tr>
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We’re a rather jaded pair of course, but Cartagena seems like a good place to stop enroute to Panama and not a world class destination in itself. People are sweet, there’s lots of well armed security at the marina, lots of cops on the streets, cabs are cheap and prices in general are quite moderate. There are very good super markets for provisioning and plenty of good restaurant food available. Also, true civilization can be found in the fact that they know how to make a really good chocolate shake! There is hope for Columbia!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOewvOGZDNnYDSVvzq7Nf28knC-TWnvi8vYBw6c7joBxHHT-Gpi7ohuALBwKzkX7G9ecMBwFRoObiT-4rabe2yCTYyFnFJKBV3yRzE4e-Npj91StSTQ-uYnRepW1QDPGCryeYQyWVsr05N/s1600/IMG_8480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOewvOGZDNnYDSVvzq7Nf28knC-TWnvi8vYBw6c7joBxHHT-Gpi7ohuALBwKzkX7G9ecMBwFRoObiT-4rabe2yCTYyFnFJKBV3yRzE4e-Npj91StSTQ-uYnRepW1QDPGCryeYQyWVsr05N/s320/IMG_8480.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monument to San Pedro Claver</td></tr>
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We plan on being here ten days, departing Tuesday the 3rd of May for the San Blas Islands of Panama. Should take just over a day for our planned landfall. The boat is in good shape with the exception of the fridge which has ceased to cool once again. You may remember it failed on the Atlantic crossing. I had the coolant filled in St. Lucia and it seemed to hold pressure and to have solved the problem. Well, it quit again and seems to be out of coolant and that shouldn’t happen in just a few months. We’re supposed to have a service guy here this morning and hopefully the fix will be simple enough. Of course a different service outfit was supposed to be here all day yesterday and never showed! We’ll see.</div>
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So we’re both homesick and by next week it’ll be time to get moving towards Panama and ultimately towards the great white bird homeward bound. With a little luck there will be some very good stuff between here and there, the San Blas Islands are supposed to be wonderful, but home sounds pretty good.<br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAOmlnYu4e20uJm7_s0sZBU9TOmBEg9LyrNgT4h1aFKeECs3kGnQOFTuebDYdx7TDVl66ESvOtInKchawmde3z-o4d-eOLhY5YIJcsRzX39Bm162mpR316XftSJS3IsI0y8Bpai1uKATV7/s1600/IMG_8410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAOmlnYu4e20uJm7_s0sZBU9TOmBEg9LyrNgT4h1aFKeECs3kGnQOFTuebDYdx7TDVl66ESvOtInKchawmde3z-o4d-eOLhY5YIJcsRzX39Bm162mpR316XftSJS3IsI0y8Bpai1uKATV7/s320/IMG_8410.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Family time, Harbour Village's beach</td></tr>
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By Caribbean party island standards Bonaire is a very quiet place. As far as we know there isn’t a tourist attracting night time hot spot to be found anywhere. The local bars don’t seem very interesting and there seems to be no live music to found other than the small but rather good jazz group that plays Wednesday nights here at the marina restaurant. Ahh, there was one night of hell on the other side of town in the local stadium where some disc jockey “music” was being played at about 160 db. Luckily we are berthed far away and up wind.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "floating hotel" with a"red hot" dinghy</td></tr>
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But do we care? No way, we like the quiet. We dive almost everyday and we’re getting to be friends with the crew at WannaDive which is a very nice operation. They do our tank fills and we do an occasional boat dive with them. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj36wiwa2J55sQrhSF9vubt-FKuZ5acN2HsXAIeWJsOOv4LhjqmoEVN3WuiLaX54ffDV9wvI8eB5ONOsA5RBsF8FBJCSA_vvl77HshTVwbIGPuAJhrlD_sJeTxemrudptBmxmnC3GRneHX3/s1600/P1010006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj36wiwa2J55sQrhSF9vubt-FKuZ5acN2HsXAIeWJsOOv4LhjqmoEVN3WuiLaX54ffDV9wvI8eB5ONOsA5RBsF8FBJCSA_vvl77HshTVwbIGPuAJhrlD_sJeTxemrudptBmxmnC3GRneHX3/s320/P1010006.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Suited up for a shore dive</td></tr>
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We have great gelato at a nice place in town. We have a happy hour libation at the marina bar with like minded folks. We know where to find excellent pizza and great ribs. The trades are always blowing and although its in the eighties every day it cools down into the seventies at night and there’s a cool breeze through the boat for good sleeping. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monkeys on board</td></tr>
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The main event since your last update has been a visit from my niece Julie LePrie, husband Russ and their two kids Owen and Jack, ages seven and five. They stayed with us on the boat for five nights and then next door at the Harbour Village Resort for the last two evenings. Great fun was had by all! We showed them the island and spent two days on the beach at the Plaza resort snorkeling, diving and using the Plaza’s lovely facility. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look out below</td></tr>
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All for the price of a $15 cabana. We had an afternoon at Jibe City where the boys played on the beach and Julie took a wind surfing lesson. Then a couple more days on the Harbour Village Resort’s beach with more snorkeling. The boys made friends with the iguanas. We had a morning dinghy ride each day. They think our dinghy is definitely hot stuff. Owen is an avid fisherman so I managed to get him onto a couple fish off our docks. Julie and Janet talked about everything and kids and Russ and I solved the world’s problems.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prior to lift off.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mutton Snapper</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Atlantic Thread Herring</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The family that fishes together........</td></tr>
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He does, however, have entirely too much faith in the future of self driving cars. Now me, after a lifetime of monitoring aircraft systems that should be in a “nothing can go wrong” mode, I am probably far too cynical and have little faith in automatic systems unless monitored by at least one very professional person who’s awake at all times. The future will tell.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chad and Jerry</td></tr>
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So it was lonely after they departed. We miss them all and we miss Jerry and Chad and our cruising friends. And we’re beginning to get homesick after four months on the boat. The stem balls for the stainless steel rod rigging that forms our lower shrouds, the shrouds we will be replacing, are supposed to be at the supplier in the Ft. Lauderdale today. If he does receive them he’ll get the new shrouds shipped tomorrow and we’ll have them in a couple days. A day or two of work on the rig and we’ll be ready to depart only a few days later than we had planned. Then it will be off to Cartagena with perhaps a couple stops enroute, then to the San Blas islands of Panama and then Panama itself.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7nDi5BqaMnE85BABLD1fo_6VgkFzA7dFxyH_H8Vki0BNgYOLIuNJtl-8_v2FWZD5wN6c3WmA-q1U0vahXV-6O-3dnbiGpDpWCu1oG3MBVRF16QFWAUXJF8qoqglvhENilPg8RdLySRDg1/s1600/12321683_10154125361377803_8127905198457677711_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7nDi5BqaMnE85BABLD1fo_6VgkFzA7dFxyH_H8Vki0BNgYOLIuNJtl-8_v2FWZD5wN6c3WmA-q1U0vahXV-6O-3dnbiGpDpWCu1oG3MBVRF16QFWAUXJF8qoqglvhENilPg8RdLySRDg1/s320/12321683_10154125361377803_8127905198457677711_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wish us luck</td></tr>
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet Wickman<br />
SV Airstream</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Sjli4Gq1iS3af4rmAAcHccErLrU55fWfxoGrXQCbnwNJz5J0UujuPkGko00t85myy68H3Y7v3c4c8kWBdBMEqiQJDzm-V485wCFP2YeU881h4Jig85y0lr3Dv20f5WgMrBbh2rzmiTyC/s1600/IMG_8129.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Sjli4Gq1iS3af4rmAAcHccErLrU55fWfxoGrXQCbnwNJz5J0UujuPkGko00t85myy68H3Y7v3c4c8kWBdBMEqiQJDzm-V485wCFP2YeU881h4Jig85y0lr3Dv20f5WgMrBbh2rzmiTyC/s320/IMG_8129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If you’ve ever seen the great WWII submarine movie “Run Silent, Run Deep” you’ll recognize Clark Gable’s iconic command, “Dive, dive dive!”. If you haven’t seen the movie you should, that and “Das Boot” being the greatest sub movies ever made and great movies in themselves. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cockpit social hour with Jerry Dahl</td></tr>
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That’s also pretty much what we’ve been doing on Bonaire the past three weeks. Sure enough we’ve done the usual boat stuff. I’ve changed engine oil and filters. The outboard is finally starting reliably and running very well. The lower shroud parts are supposed to be shipped the 1st and we’re ready to do that replacement. The dinghy leak has been fixed….apparently. We’ve explored much of the island and spent more money than planned upgrading dive gear, etc, etc. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fellow diver</td></tr>
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But it seems every day is pretty much organized around diving somewhere. The entire leeward side of the island (the west side) is one long coral reef and in some places its a double reef. There are a couple marine reserves but all the rest is available for a good to great dive and there are over one hundred categorized entree points. You can just drive the coastal road and shore dive, you can dinghy out to buoys anchored at the known sites or you can do boat dives. We’ve done twenty six dives here as of yesterday. We don’t make any effort to do multiple dive days. A few of those dives have been boat dives but most have been shore entries. The trades have been blowing exceptionally hard the past couple weeks and that has churned things up. Visibility in the water has probably been less than 100 feet but that has begun to improve as the wind is backing off a little. As an example yesterday we dove a site called Karpata at the northern end of the central west coast. Entry and exit were a little rough due to wave action but there was little current and the visibility was at least 100 feet. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgnIvbxrNiKrBlmQNiJSZWM9wxLRERnL3Y47gQZ3KrVpg09STIC9IpVa4NmsERxPpMl-TMa-a3U-UbvljtYBxMgcokbvo-xBnAGvR-T4yUnYmEYEcbLnieepOM6KVPclNV0lTfGWA8LSkO/s1600/IMG_8100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgnIvbxrNiKrBlmQNiJSZWM9wxLRERnL3Y47gQZ3KrVpg09STIC9IpVa4NmsERxPpMl-TMa-a3U-UbvljtYBxMgcokbvo-xBnAGvR-T4yUnYmEYEcbLnieepOM6KVPclNV0lTfGWA8LSkO/s320/IMG_8100.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karpata entry point</td></tr>
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The reef drops off almost immediately from shore to beyond scuba depth. Went went down to 130 feet along a gorgeous wall of sea fans, mixed soft and hard coral with a wide variety of tropical fish. We worked our way back up along the wall through coral canyons and then eventually into shallower water and back to our entry point. It was a great dive with the only missing element being no really large fish or turtles. We do some variation of that kind of dive somewhere almost every day. We’ve been getting our tank fills and doing a few boat dives with WannaDive which is dive operation near the marina. We would highly recommend them as a very friendly, competent and laid back operation. When my niece Marissa and her friend Olivia were with us they got their open water certifications with WannaDive and were happy with the program. They let us keep our gear in their dive rooms and we just pick up our tanks and gear and go. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-gJZl3N2kikS763YQckEl3Aa5vBEYDgCGPZS8gPHVk9_1rm3yWupLyXwLI9s69hHv8r8qUWnkOpchvVZYc_MYae-9zdVl0XgI8UEALTjuT7Vr715xF1tePQt1JFJwk2EoTT4qhNsvktJY/s1600/IMG_8131.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-gJZl3N2kikS763YQckEl3Aa5vBEYDgCGPZS8gPHVk9_1rm3yWupLyXwLI9s69hHv8r8qUWnkOpchvVZYc_MYae-9zdVl0XgI8UEALTjuT7Vr715xF1tePQt1JFJwk2EoTT4qhNsvktJY/s320/IMG_8131.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">WannaDive's operation</td></tr>
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We been socializing and diving with Jerry Dahl who has become a good friend and dive buddy. His sweetie Gwen left a few days ago but he’ll be here a few more days on his boat ‘Castaway’ until heading for Curacao with a friend as crew. Jerry and I have an amazing number of things in common starting with being Iowans the same age and it goes on and on. Jerry has been coming to Bonaire diving since 1972! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDtiK7okDpykx13qQeGwZql-DTzKqkeLSdxm6t1hZlg-jNLptxQwL0GoEo5uKmFjsZjUgmlvmY-OXD_h68NxYq5I9lj5i3QU02WRybiq0Ht-mOvx0Kl_KETKj9ulLC9IU2U1qrz8P07ZhR/s1600/P1010015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDtiK7okDpykx13qQeGwZql-DTzKqkeLSdxm6t1hZlg-jNLptxQwL0GoEo5uKmFjsZjUgmlvmY-OXD_h68NxYq5I9lj5i3QU02WRybiq0Ht-mOvx0Kl_KETKj9ulLC9IU2U1qrz8P07ZhR/s320/P1010015.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Janet and me...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-6JhLas8vOElV4ldTx_QSpSslPruDqycj21uAYiatrlIlNZ0clkH92K4hQto-ctZssBZ2C0WPLWttXo6ry0tyTD08klJ-8No0-M3DpM2w5tgsbin7q8JFxg0b_-g0QsZF6N70EhfVrCZ/s1600/P1010014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-6JhLas8vOElV4ldTx_QSpSslPruDqycj21uAYiatrlIlNZ0clkH92K4hQto-ctZssBZ2C0WPLWttXo6ry0tyTD08klJ-8No0-M3DpM2w5tgsbin7q8JFxg0b_-g0QsZF6N70EhfVrCZ/s320/P1010014.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">.....with Jerry Dahl</td></tr>
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So the next big event is a family visit from my niece Julie, her husband Russ and their two boys Owen and Jack, ages six and four. That will be a kick! If we survive the week we’ll get this boat up and ready to move onto Cartagena about the middle of April.<br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill and Janet<br />
SV Airstream</div>
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We’ve been in Bonaire two weeks now and are starting to feel like old hands. We can drive around ‘town’ without getting lost in the roundabouts and we can find decent ice cream when needed. There are more than a hundred recognized dive sites around the island and we’ve done ten so far. Actually you can fall into the water about anywhere on the leeward side of the island and have a good tropical dive experience. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijXqemV2mksjtbvsghQjfJnA67alPM_shWjfSPVH7dy8ZHLpsg0yEO0rxRCrNhPb98sCQQnFkE3TzoQkJzDliEwR7Mv4xXUdGW4EPuoJCGDG-Q5rfuzfXayAYcKRqseN2EXjvb03-j-lEQ/s1600/IMG_8138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijXqemV2mksjtbvsghQjfJnA67alPM_shWjfSPVH7dy8ZHLpsg0yEO0rxRCrNhPb98sCQQnFkE3TzoQkJzDliEwR7Mv4xXUdGW4EPuoJCGDG-Q5rfuzfXayAYcKRqseN2EXjvb03-j-lEQ/s320/IMG_8138.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dominant native fauna</td></tr>
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People are laid back and friendly and the racial ‘edge’ found many places in the eastern Caribbean doesn’t seem to exist here. The Dutch influence is strong and positive. Island time is still a factor but not to the point where nothing gets accomplished. The rigger working to solve our shroud problem seems to be a good guy and I believe we’ve finally got our pesky outboard starting problem solved at last. With a little luck things will continue to go very well</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzEDLI9E6OMalHl576oKOOrxn70fB_KzkGVNjCbEiky1f3bcP3cIXwBCtdFPjX_bN_7R2tMlIhxqaoA_BJ4Z_YTsDLUunUTNwhK2x_IpmXKe2wGuvVL3m4MkcBA49fqciv10h435sldXk8/s1600/IMG_8107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzEDLI9E6OMalHl576oKOOrxn70fB_KzkGVNjCbEiky1f3bcP3cIXwBCtdFPjX_bN_7R2tMlIhxqaoA_BJ4Z_YTsDLUunUTNwhK2x_IpmXKe2wGuvVL3m4MkcBA49fqciv10h435sldXk8/s320/IMG_8107.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Olivia, the old guy and Marissa</td></tr>
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We had a really nice visit from my great niece Marissa and her roommate/teammate Olivia. The girls are freshmen at Creighton University and soccer players for the university team. They flew in and spent eight days with us on the boat. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbUHIGrJrzmcg4P1BJA12BYux67SRzd_rwoVk7lEsZhnVLBvU_hNoKWkIWz6KS0B21-lvM-3WmcOY6s0T7Z3HbdMA0dP6aQZ9LbGysqhSwOQna3olcTvuTWQRWDOBzXfC7TznMe_s2XYh/s1600/IMG_8105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbUHIGrJrzmcg4P1BJA12BYux67SRzd_rwoVk7lEsZhnVLBvU_hNoKWkIWz6KS0B21-lvM-3WmcOY6s0T7Z3HbdMA0dP6aQZ9LbGysqhSwOQna3olcTvuTWQRWDOBzXfC7TznMe_s2XYh/s320/IMG_8105.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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They got scuba certified and went diving with us. They took wind surfing lessons. They did the usual girls stuff and some shopping. They’re very nice, smart and athletic girls and it was very interesting for us ‘old’ folks having some teenagers around for a change. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQimO_qjb-7A0JQRRwk-StcRkSwGx2gvzzBIKGB4N-8aHDvwf7UDtT0REGhMvKG-YPEYx1XU4ZvZwjxoO-60PhIDEplB4aWyuyXVPQr3nLQT8otRtKQN2idR74bhNzQwme_NLZg3QDs5LG/s1600/P1010009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQimO_qjb-7A0JQRRwk-StcRkSwGx2gvzzBIKGB4N-8aHDvwf7UDtT0REGhMvKG-YPEYx1XU4ZvZwjxoO-60PhIDEplB4aWyuyXVPQr3nLQT8otRtKQN2idR74bhNzQwme_NLZg3QDs5LG/s320/P1010009.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dive training</td></tr>
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So we’ve been diving with a nearby dive shop called “Wannadive” and enjoying the local scene. They do our tank fills and we keep gear at their shop. Our boat dives have been with them. They’re very nice.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgouKa5E2MeznudPN4TuAPB_1abyyjdIqQazYzmCQ0poWJ24qP8KXB9qegaLfpm4aDf4qunWeNHU64o_0fi6hNIjv31FKj31DQNaYLNr5tTnWzZs-vDBdi8sKUIGKyhi6A2th_c_dh1GMxB/s1600/IMG_8186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgouKa5E2MeznudPN4TuAPB_1abyyjdIqQazYzmCQ0poWJ24qP8KXB9qegaLfpm4aDf4qunWeNHU64o_0fi6hNIjv31FKj31DQNaYLNr5tTnWzZs-vDBdi8sKUIGKyhi6A2th_c_dh1GMxB/s320/IMG_8186.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wind surfing lessons</td></tr>
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But people at home say that we’re on another “island paradise”. Hmmm…..when I look at Bonaire I see an arid and harsh place where cactus and Iguanas compete with the wild donkeys for what little sustenance is provided. There is almost no fresh water and all the water used in the island’s system is reverse osmosis sea water. What I think of is what an old ship wrecked mariner would have thought having washed up ashore. This was a little bit of hell for those people and for the slaves who were brought in to work the salt ponds. Today the main sources of income are tourism, mostly dive tourism, and salt. Cargill owns the salt production facilities that occupy most of the southern third of the island. There are dive shops on every corner and they seem quite good. There are modern super markets and good restaurants. People are friendly and competent</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivN6VJkQH4yXs1sZHBKFwMHiG7XK-A5AwV5RxnX6SdSdROfoOrqX72up3w0AY5NXodsPy-hWdcObMlwM4RGScsLZg1lAokbhFaRb4xDBRvyEw10oVD26rkboAO_E97amuMuubML1iT7mHS/s1600/IMGP0003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivN6VJkQH4yXs1sZHBKFwMHiG7XK-A5AwV5RxnX6SdSdROfoOrqX72up3w0AY5NXodsPy-hWdcObMlwM4RGScsLZg1lAokbhFaRb4xDBRvyEw10oVD26rkboAO_E97amuMuubML1iT7mHS/s320/IMGP0003.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cargill's salt loading facility</td></tr>
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Beneath the surface is a rich and varied tropical ecosystem that is well protected by the island government and seems quite healthy. Typically there’s a shore ledge that extends out to 20-50 yards of sandy bottom with some soft corals or stag horn coral and then the reef drops off to maybe 140 feet of depth in a nice wall. The walls are covered with a good variety of coral and there are supposed to be over 400 hundred species of fish. Visibility is 70-100 feet and water temps are about 80F. Its good, very good, tropical diving. Bonaire is touted as being one of the three best dive sites in the world. Well….maybe…..that jury is still out as far as we’re concerned. I still think of the walls north of Little Cayman, the Red Sea south of Hurghada and a bunch of places in the Pacific and Indian Ocean as perhaps better. But as far as the number of sites available, shall we say the square miles of reef that are easily accessible, well maybe that’s an argument to be made. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeXjT9umGtr2iNqSDMb7Txn5f0kYmYsYZnaeC-ZkGkxKGN3ZWNsj2YWM8z-DZ2lGUF42x7igBXRrXqJkjohHskqqX8lWtC9UhZn72wzwISwDwCSe9T0rCFNRx9g8Zha3TNuqs8JgWY3PMR/s1600/IMG_8116.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeXjT9umGtr2iNqSDMb7Txn5f0kYmYsYZnaeC-ZkGkxKGN3ZWNsj2YWM8z-DZ2lGUF42x7igBXRrXqJkjohHskqqX8lWtC9UhZn72wzwISwDwCSe9T0rCFNRx9g8Zha3TNuqs8JgWY3PMR/s320/IMG_8116.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfH1RvCD2fIt9rdz_Lmy-Y4poo3poepWkdh5L03hNYnjcKf_YyO_VzjtJPZSktbJQPtFy2NStDmLol66gZD3KpHpsjZDoI7aSkVsU34YBBQjntDAgT0zCFddHYdQ9qkNTVTq6kM_IfBEx7/s1600/IMG_8124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfH1RvCD2fIt9rdz_Lmy-Y4poo3poepWkdh5L03hNYnjcKf_YyO_VzjtJPZSktbJQPtFy2NStDmLol66gZD3KpHpsjZDoI7aSkVsU34YBBQjntDAgT0zCFddHYdQ9qkNTVTq6kM_IfBEx7/s320/IMG_8124.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flamingos on the southern flats</td></tr>
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In the meantime life is good. Our rental wreck pickup is running better. The previous renter had tried to run it on diesel and it was still recovering but the rental outfit assured me it would be OK and a tank of gas later that seems to be the case. The roads are very rough and tough. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXkGhPZv5tTD5M_KGMa9r03mXzAYW39yVw3NOJhlhU8Gsl6YthoA8h4_hZIrDQSVGg6DEPCaPWw4Z4MWHaY7EH9dq2oi1uxrnLKORBkBXBeOsf9DRMU6f7IQ7HBMCmFpJHMYJY81nccToB/s1600/IMG_0432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXkGhPZv5tTD5M_KGMa9r03mXzAYW39yVw3NOJhlhU8Gsl6YthoA8h4_hZIrDQSVGg6DEPCaPWw4Z4MWHaY7EH9dq2oi1uxrnLKORBkBXBeOsf9DRMU6f7IQ7HBMCmFpJHMYJY81nccToB/s320/IMG_0432.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch at Karel's on the waterfront</td></tr>
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We’ll have more family down in a couple weeks and that will be great fun. All is well. We’re looking forward to the next month in Bonaire. <br />
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Love and kisses,<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2otflt6nUPo6M4kks3JIu9K2MEuLWexcqwFw7lEcshlLHqvDueNMEBarj7Q2DR8DCMsrZApsx4U-YDLdQTMaj4rzx0Eg4okpLjRnNw9IBpg3ClBdCKL02VTYCBmJSnFC6Uffb86bDhOlZ/s1600/IMG_7985.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2otflt6nUPo6M4kks3JIu9K2MEuLWexcqwFw7lEcshlLHqvDueNMEBarj7Q2DR8DCMsrZApsx4U-YDLdQTMaj4rzx0Eg4okpLjRnNw9IBpg3ClBdCKL02VTYCBmJSnFC6Uffb86bDhOlZ/s320/IMG_7985.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Departing Rodney Bay</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
We’re at Harbour Village Marina in Bonaire as planned. The voyage went well, mostly, more about that later. We arrived the 29th and got nicely situated. The marina is small by European standards, about eighty slips, but all amenities are available and its rather posh. What’s more there is that almost indefinable thing we’ve been missing so long, cruiser camaraderie! We have a nice Australian boat from Adelaide beside us. We ran into Frank from SY Morning LIght yesterday at the bar. We cruised with him in Rarotonga and several places across the Pacific and SE Asia. There are several good American boats and the social atmosphere is somehow different in a very pleasant manner. People here are sailors and divers not just charterers, vacationers and site seeing types and there’s some of that sense of shared adventure. Very nice</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifvJOH4zyDtwRYSA8OmjOlJn5Q1aE8mvPkiVoXBxqFoxZte-ityZishh9SgGc5mtiaGxnp_HI87wplw8tsnGOgATZz8b7MHCjvANJI_6OFyigpcXxKOVY0DV_7oqSRoUnaQfvGsZklYXOz/s1600/IMG_7994.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifvJOH4zyDtwRYSA8OmjOlJn5Q1aE8mvPkiVoXBxqFoxZte-ityZishh9SgGc5mtiaGxnp_HI87wplw8tsnGOgATZz8b7MHCjvANJI_6OFyigpcXxKOVY0DV_7oqSRoUnaQfvGsZklYXOz/s320/IMG_7994.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On a mooring at Marigot Bay</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
St. Lucia had been quite sweet. Rodney Bay Marina had become a little like home so it was with some sadness that we left and motored a few miles down the coast to Marigot Bay and picked up a mooring. Marigot Bay is a lovely very small natural bay surrounded by high rainforest covered hills. A perfect hurricane hole. Its well developed ashore but in a pretty picturesque way and there are good services. We checked out of St. Lucia there, had a nice dinner at Doolittle’s restaurant and left the next morning for the pitons. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF8Vy9fPRiJBgs0dd56nd_G83YuhkQvqKL2yzrD9pD5LZDsEyneXNP7gA3PPbliSLqsFVLlkM2J8dFhblU9G0sVxG0DquqOJOqEZhqaxnrDNGj6WWMvLHf7kPLUbwp-4AF4amwelhYiboL/s1600/IMG_7999.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF8Vy9fPRiJBgs0dd56nd_G83YuhkQvqKL2yzrD9pD5LZDsEyneXNP7gA3PPbliSLqsFVLlkM2J8dFhblU9G0sVxG0DquqOJOqEZhqaxnrDNGj6WWMvLHf7kPLUbwp-4AF4amwelhYiboL/s320/IMG_7999.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marigot Bay beach ferry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We had planned to spend the night at a place called The Hummingbird where they were supposed to have moorings, etc, etc. But after finding no moorings and since they wouldn’t answer VHF and since when I got ahold of them by cell phone they couldn’t supply any info about securing our boat for the night, stuff we thought we had sorted out with them the day before, we cancelled and headed a little further south to the moorings between the pitons.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwd7MsuB-B-FLJf5zODWj8qI-dvBObgZ_EaJS3vwA6G1Fw29Cc9yvrW8EwbdNJTGf-BOh3wRRgb0tHq2ivdG8TJ8W9yaJseDa6NCnVcKdeaziauZ0woPj9RnaGbs6kv7DWPCyqzpsX1yPq/s1600/IMG_8010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwd7MsuB-B-FLJf5zODWj8qI-dvBObgZ_EaJS3vwA6G1Fw29Cc9yvrW8EwbdNJTGf-BOh3wRRgb0tHq2ivdG8TJ8W9yaJseDa6NCnVcKdeaziauZ0woPj9RnaGbs6kv7DWPCyqzpsX1yPq/s320/IMG_8010.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Towards the pitons</td></tr>
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And that turned out to be very special. It was one of the most dramatically beautiful anchorages we’ve had in a long time, right up there with Ua Pou or Vatu Hiva in the Marquesas or some of the Society Island anchorages. Plus ashore there is one resort called Sugar Beach. This has the reputation of being the finest and most expensive place on St. Lucia. It certainly is beautiful. No high rise monstrosity but a number of off-white victorian ginger bread villas set into the rain forest above a gorgeous beach.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWAia-l0snTaJkwdysBxhCzup1i3F3IFbOx9ijb3S222HXiRD3QMEChPXXtrcG4wnVcb55t4QJCx-RUaik0ysvwhtY2AXdtGMZ3Ezu_vVhJyL4SkgmX3xU8_Q03sTxWCup283L-sAFjyxD/s1600/IMG_8044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWAia-l0snTaJkwdysBxhCzup1i3F3IFbOx9ijb3S222HXiRD3QMEChPXXtrcG4wnVcb55t4QJCx-RUaik0ysvwhtY2AXdtGMZ3Ezu_vVhJyL4SkgmX3xU8_Q03sTxWCup283L-sAFjyxD/s320/IMG_8044.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sugar Beach view</td></tr>
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Very quiet and lovely. We went in for drinks and dinner, paid the price, and it was worth every penny. Next morning we snorkeled off the boat in decent coral, relaxed, enjoyed the spectacular view and then headed out for Bonaire.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHE3HMVdGS9S-fxD4DAYn8yl4NrykTG1YoFkxv2xXgbZkxT_h6vT4S-_q2wp-7CTUpIg_j0DmgHQ5vJsj-Anj745KyKo6Qmr1sQYGu0x5LZckKWOvmtOpAPsrIJofedOSNTaUHG5oNSVa/s1600/IMG_8058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHE3HMVdGS9S-fxD4DAYn8yl4NrykTG1YoFkxv2xXgbZkxT_h6vT4S-_q2wp-7CTUpIg_j0DmgHQ5vJsj-Anj745KyKo6Qmr1sQYGu0x5LZckKWOvmtOpAPsrIJofedOSNTaUHG5oNSVa/s320/IMG_8058.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sugar Beach bar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWquxbknGc7_27go6MOoIWWEDmu8nGdykfXMZmTjlYq4a95IOkv3qUuIFY3j41apoWSYVJIuJTfEwCo7Avvs4KVYi3AnyzCMH_0MA4nROV30pHWvZtrWHT95OwbgI9_imIIO3U9Jbk7rJH/s1600/IMG_8019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWquxbknGc7_27go6MOoIWWEDmu8nGdykfXMZmTjlYq4a95IOkv3qUuIFY3j41apoWSYVJIuJTfEwCo7Avvs4KVYi3AnyzCMH_0MA4nROV30pHWvZtrWHT95OwbgI9_imIIO3U9Jbk7rJH/s320/IMG_8019.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SE coast of St. Lucia, the pitons</td></tr>
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The passage is roughly four hundred and fifty miles and almost dead downwind in the prevailing trades. We had fifteen to twenty knots most of the trip and sailed with the genoa set alone being no hurry and just wanting as pleasant a trip as possible.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLhxlcEN4v9G_qOxy5n9rMxxciF4SG3y8Ro_XIdT6JEN9CMIy_e-OU3Cdr31g-e2Vam48Zn1XfxeGKs1SElSmoREZJgQrVaHDTOokFJ_0DREkz5eglzdeZo-BSqT5lIqVq5KgLNqo7wIXW/s1600/IMG_8080.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLhxlcEN4v9G_qOxy5n9rMxxciF4SG3y8Ro_XIdT6JEN9CMIy_e-OU3Cdr31g-e2Vam48Zn1XfxeGKs1SElSmoREZJgQrVaHDTOokFJ_0DREkz5eglzdeZo-BSqT5lIqVq5KgLNqo7wIXW/s320/IMG_8080.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Departing St. Lucia</td></tr>
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There was some roll but not like the Atlantic crossing. We had a little night time rain but none of the Atlantic squalls. And about half way across the starboard lower shroud broke with a rather shocking metallic BANG! hmmmm…..I knew I should have put another turn or two on those lower turn buckles before leaving Grand Canary. There was definitely some play in the leeward lowers during the roll but it didn’t seem excessive. Well, continuous rod standing rigging is great stuff but it doesn’t like looseness and that was proof. We consulted with a rigger in Bonaire by sat phone and he confirmed there was little chance of the rest of the rig coming down given our point of sail and conditions. I set up spinnaker halyards to the toe rails port and starboard. We pressed on under genoa alone and as I half way expected the port side shroud also failed about twelve hours out. So we came in without further incident.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYksxoz6_dKMhy3C1yoxmr88fmZNjMncxhABEUaoVrZ7Kh6x8eI95ucGwTGYxGg4LIclTYw1W3UsHRQbJtoSZ5eMPJlDpDTj1xvQNv4F_3WM6CqBMgZtCn3K-S8LpVrELR6qlwx3HzbbNl/s1600/IMGP0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYksxoz6_dKMhy3C1yoxmr88fmZNjMncxhABEUaoVrZ7Kh6x8eI95ucGwTGYxGg4LIclTYw1W3UsHRQbJtoSZ5eMPJlDpDTj1xvQNv4F_3WM6CqBMgZtCn3K-S8LpVrELR6qlwx3HzbbNl/s320/IMGP0004.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering Harbour Village Marina</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I took down the shrouds and this rigger, who seems pretty competent, thinks we can get new material from Selden (the manufacturer) without difficulty. He didn’t say “without cost” so it will probably be an expensive lesson. The new lowers will never be in play, I promise.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVX0uGd3P0NkY1pl9rWvZxA9-2SoOSmGcgwaWbyW1ckmLKN2bfwhUWPk1vwCQAnpzJjDrFkB1w2DYW78q2NtnB7GOdfEgnn9_4qPygBvQ8Dw9Ps3kNM9QM0KBFjhTEzUTM_ne2wmctE409/s1600/IMG_8094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVX0uGd3P0NkY1pl9rWvZxA9-2SoOSmGcgwaWbyW1ckmLKN2bfwhUWPk1vwCQAnpzJjDrFkB1w2DYW78q2NtnB7GOdfEgnn9_4qPygBvQ8Dw9Ps3kNM9QM0KBFjhTEzUTM_ne2wmctE409/s320/IMG_8094.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keeping out the pesky wild donkeys, Bonaire</td></tr>
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So we’ve started exploring Bonaire. We got established at a dive operation and have done four dives in the last couple days. We’ve got a car, actually a pickup because that’s what everybody gets to haul around their dive gear, tanks, etc. The atmosphere is friendly and laid back. The island officially calls itself “The Divers Paradise” and most everything is oriented towards that activity. What we’ve seen so far is lovely water with about 100 feet visibility, plenty of aquatic life, including by far the biggest Green Moray eel (whatta beast!) we’ve ever seen and decent coral.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4PaDro1NJP-jx4dlCtmzgwmTLuHD9MApvupjNIKCSj0JuLKpWi4WN7vUPW-dmB95G9g-vphYuiV2EJdPvleub4uPegAVI4ErYB7m80W8PVI8QjKng7b4T5n3BzyFpfkxZOoPZAvwFGjnH/s1600/IMG_8096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4PaDro1NJP-jx4dlCtmzgwmTLuHD9MApvupjNIKCSj0JuLKpWi4WN7vUPW-dmB95G9g-vphYuiV2EJdPvleub4uPegAVI4ErYB7m80W8PVI8QjKng7b4T5n3BzyFpfkxZOoPZAvwFGjnH/s320/IMG_8096.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
We’re going to do a lot more diving in the next six weeks and then we’ll have a real opinion. This place is touted as one of the three best diving destinations in the world. I have my doubts about that, we are quite spoiled and jaded folks. But I’m sure we’ll have a very good time. Stay tuned for the full report.<br />
<br />
Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet</div>
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St. Lucia is quite nice. Rather more civilized and developed than I had anticipated. That’s good in that one wants all the services and amenities and bad in that there’s little sense of adventure in being here. The west side of the island, especially the northwest where we are, is the most populated area and most of the 185,000 folks on St. Lucia live on the west, leeward side. The east is exposed to the Atlantic swell and weather. The interior is very rugged and mostly rain forest. </div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFFJXRH3J_iEm28pPwrqj-89VyE2ourPv0MDQgKzoyAlJM25FTN727xT0GlFeF1vQLMAJ6A-IuF4tBbX6p7bMCGGefR9ddfOxHqL_cI_U4W8OtphvwyJ0xpU9ab_dM1GDgg7SsCfxug7sv/s1600/IMG_7976.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFFJXRH3J_iEm28pPwrqj-89VyE2ourPv0MDQgKzoyAlJM25FTN727xT0GlFeF1vQLMAJ6A-IuF4tBbX6p7bMCGGefR9ddfOxHqL_cI_U4W8OtphvwyJ0xpU9ab_dM1GDgg7SsCfxug7sv/s320/IMG_7976.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slip G19 Rodney Bay Marina</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Rodney Bay Marina has proven to be a good place that’s well managed and secure. The usual yacht services are available, there’s a good chandlery and several decent restaurants including Thai, Japanese and Indian. People are friendly and the ‘freelancers’ wandering the docks looking for jobs to do are watched over by marina security. We’ve used two of these guys and one was quite good, the other not so good. Things work on “island time” which can mean about anything but almost never “now”. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimKqTs1VYOAuyQ3cx3psHgV2wJmvfTKEuX0NKhiyStp2wRh6JN-EEVRzmH_HORTagT-1GLdfW4WAi5wnfBdE2HE9_gXEpXtFP867xOBMgZPXlLXjcWObLu1wsrIqrGrr3NvWmHuQ9jFdr-/s1600/IMG_7978.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimKqTs1VYOAuyQ3cx3psHgV2wJmvfTKEuX0NKhiyStp2wRh6JN-EEVRzmH_HORTagT-1GLdfW4WAi5wnfBdE2HE9_gXEpXtFP867xOBMgZPXlLXjcWObLu1wsrIqrGrr3NvWmHuQ9jFdr-/s320/IMG_7978.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZZuA8NgaORmCNGiu5RdSytIwv07hmMiy5oVkBLbV7Rno23AZsbOZvDeyDeUZ5I8Sz8PH7WjIXYKZcxuPf65uYuV4GbMu0JfaLdiJSGXsIPOpKq1bwi1GNhqrG0UjcszjYzHbNyKKwCDB/s1600/IMG_7974.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrZZuA8NgaORmCNGiu5RdSytIwv07hmMiy5oVkBLbV7Rno23AZsbOZvDeyDeUZ5I8Sz8PH7WjIXYKZcxuPf65uYuV4GbMu0JfaLdiJSGXsIPOpKq1bwi1GNhqrG0UjcszjYzHbNyKKwCDB/s320/IMG_7974.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marina scenes</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
I’ve been here two weeks and Janet a week. Most of my time has been devoted to boat jobs. OK, I’ll admit it, that’s probably less than half of any given day. But after a major voyage there’s bound to be a little stuff that needs to be done. In the days of wooden ships and iron men a good skipper prided himself on the appearance and condition of the ship entering port. That hasn’t changed completely but the crew is onboard for fun and adventure and the cat of nine tails has gone out of fashion. Here’s a short list of the first things I did or had done . And there’s easily three times this much that I’ve never bothered to list:<br />
<br />
-rebuild hydraulic backstay cylinder<br />
-fix bent starboard lifeline station<br />
-replace broken mainsail car<br />
-replace missing lower mainsail batten (tried but no batten available)<br />
-have refrigeration serviced<br />
-replace fridge thermostat<br />
-have dodger canvas repaired<br />
-get dodger hardware repaired<br />
-fix mast leak<br />
-purchase and install new inverter<br />
-re-glue teak strip on aft starboard lazarette<br />
-reinstall solar panels<br />
-get scuba tanks re-certified<br />
-replace spinnaker pole butt downhaul line (chaffed)<br />
-pickle water maker<br />
-get genoa repaired and serviced<br />
-etc,etc,etc,etc</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGb-hIbdgNLqEvA5EF3Si72u8XhNJkXSta42tBRPoAB7BHXlt0fOaueebM3GJ6raY-fTkP45Ngk9YIxU0HO20mPZVnqAD4c2jy9zJGUnJFu8bbUl6zGh9WumyYM-aJRUUZHmvc04fzQpSF/s1600/IMG_7969.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGb-hIbdgNLqEvA5EF3Si72u8XhNJkXSta42tBRPoAB7BHXlt0fOaueebM3GJ6raY-fTkP45Ngk9YIxU0HO20mPZVnqAD4c2jy9zJGUnJFu8bbUl6zGh9WumyYM-aJRUUZHmvc04fzQpSF/s320/IMG_7969.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fixing the "fire hose" mast leak</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnyIYkmhwyVEkdlPQnWm20X-KqGghamtyeZX5hS4Jw4Pg0rHoOQQ5ToRrcHGHWGmGhNO8gnrUplpUUMK13bKXLsH71zRfBNKBJsw7NQ8rgSsj5iB0BeXD0JK8qdM1VrIoZm_Jf72fNKXi8/s1600/IMG_7979.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnyIYkmhwyVEkdlPQnWm20X-KqGghamtyeZX5hS4Jw4Pg0rHoOQQ5ToRrcHGHWGmGhNO8gnrUplpUUMK13bKXLsH71zRfBNKBJsw7NQ8rgSsj5iB0BeXD0JK8qdM1VrIoZm_Jf72fNKXi8/s320/IMG_7979.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Like anywhere in our experience the quality of the people we have worked with varies a little. Most have been fine and a couple really very good and maybe a couple not so good.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge2Ye-3jOOjbq5Tf4KgXxfa9oj6knJTeuoH9DFnhKAJyenJ6eSZ4xj0FYo-lkij9b3fgSZxfMDP_YH1cLX5dB0rjLRqY_ZJpcnB-D_CO9lqxPzhjZ4FVmM_cFi-xul3ruFca1uux4MyM39/s1600/IMG_7982.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge2Ye-3jOOjbq5Tf4KgXxfa9oj6knJTeuoH9DFnhKAJyenJ6eSZ4xj0FYo-lkij9b3fgSZxfMDP_YH1cLX5dB0rjLRqY_ZJpcnB-D_CO9lqxPzhjZ4FVmM_cFi-xul3ruFca1uux4MyM39/s320/IMG_7982.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gary, one of the good guys.</td></tr>
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But we have had a little fun. Just having Janet here rather than my smelly old crew is great fun for me. We have our five PM ‘beer o’clock’ on board and then prowl the marina haunts looking for conversation and for whatever place to feed ourselves if boat food doesn’t sound good. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marina front restaurants</td></tr>
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Yesterday we did our first pleasure diving in almost five years. I’ve been doing an occasional boat fix type dive but the Med diving wasn’t much and diving SE Asia, where we were at least, was not worth doing. Of course we’ve been spoiled. So we made arrangements to spend a two dive day with Dive St. Lucia which was a very clean and modern operation very near the marina. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEvZTrVM13lz1M9YcZaCkEQ8W-OLEYC_F-goG3SmQnbOOA1dtLLZgK4hq640gxf9G0oFfcATqCqU3b9VHU7dCpd_Sbgz3UvNxbdPvGADfYhyphenhyphenp65Y0tJIv44gN8pYVXmo12lIZcXlpjSk-b/s1600/IMGP0009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEvZTrVM13lz1M9YcZaCkEQ8W-OLEYC_F-goG3SmQnbOOA1dtLLZgK4hq640gxf9G0oFfcATqCqU3b9VHU7dCpd_Sbgz3UvNxbdPvGADfYhyphenhyphenp65Y0tJIv44gN8pYVXmo12lIZcXlpjSk-b/s320/IMGP0009.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Janet and Germain, our dive master</td></tr>
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We did a little re-familiarization work in the pool prior to the dives and then headed out for a day on one of their boats. The diving was good, not great. We did a wreck dive to about sixty-five feet. Visibility was maybe 60-70 feet and the usual tropical life was present, nice but nothing new to see and the wreck was sunk as a dive sight twenty years ago.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhazqUQ1tSCAQuh2Zr8dCUIIprMQtghQTOusNIA1nVM_-knppIsT8cO-cfZBPiJNUexqL92K_GvYCK5I0pRXs1A9mInGTlaeiVk6CZ0f15I8QPXkXVVY_OPlxlIKAAzKYH5ru1QraAEKDni/s1600/IMGP0023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhazqUQ1tSCAQuh2Zr8dCUIIprMQtghQTOusNIA1nVM_-knppIsT8cO-cfZBPiJNUexqL92K_GvYCK5I0pRXs1A9mInGTlaeiVk6CZ0f15I8QPXkXVVY_OPlxlIKAAzKYH5ru1QraAEKDni/s320/IMGP0023.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dive two plan</td></tr>
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Dive two was a long swim along the shore reef at about forty feet but it was nicer in that there were a lot of fish and a lot of variety. Swam with a Hawksbill turtle. Lots of barrel sponges. Visibility about the same. So it was a fun day with an excellent dive operation. There were only six of us in our group with one dive master. There were some other snorkelers on board. The boat, the staff, the food on board and the operation in general was very good. We’d recommend Dive St. Lucia</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtJgXawp9MOjutvPgtMst-ow8hzxsDhrne3_Nh4zqp1AmX59AOzqzk-kX-RYLmq5Cb855iraj7NDZggYGivXPWcauzmE4gcvdm__LUJaYrdZviXf3PzzCsPe8exzBIM_nb8ETZ3H34303/s1600/IMGP0024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtJgXawp9MOjutvPgtMst-ow8hzxsDhrne3_Nh4zqp1AmX59AOzqzk-kX-RYLmq5Cb855iraj7NDZggYGivXPWcauzmE4gcvdm__LUJaYrdZviXf3PzzCsPe8exzBIM_nb8ETZ3H34303/s320/IMGP0024.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dive crew</td></tr>
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So it was a start back into diving. Bonaire is the place we’re looking forward to and its touted as one of the three best dive locations in the world. The plan now is to leave Rodney Bay Marina Wednesday and head down to Marigot Bay for at least a night. Then down to the southeast of the island and spend a night or two off the “pitons” and then head off to Bonaire. Bonaire is about 450 nautical miles and should be about a three day passage. We have reason to hope for a lovely down wind sail WITHOUT THE ROLL we found for eighteen days in the Atlantic. Wish us luck!<br />
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Love and kisses,<br />
Bill and Janet<br />
SV Airstream<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ2zbOVv4C7RH0bFcfnoNWbnY8VEOoUgaFnwMbDK1WjxkL9uq62hb363O9PEZr8_i5EbSkJl3N5AbnuBCB_hTcUogcMo_aZ9xiUobOdDeOJXAdYNOKqCS0hAnF50l5LnBRpymDURXXjjOA/s1600/IMG_2309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ2zbOVv4C7RH0bFcfnoNWbnY8VEOoUgaFnwMbDK1WjxkL9uq62hb363O9PEZr8_i5EbSkJl3N5AbnuBCB_hTcUogcMo_aZ9xiUobOdDeOJXAdYNOKqCS0hAnF50l5LnBRpymDURXXjjOA/s320/IMG_2309.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dan Strehlow, Bill Norton, myself and Booth Devitt</td></tr>
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Surreal! That’s what I thought after hitting the bunk about three in the AM after getting the boat secured to one of the super dock slips at Rodney Bay Marina. Surreal! No movement, no sounds, absolutely stabile and quiet. Sleep came pretty fast. And it ended entirely too soon as we weren’t really supposed to be moored at that position and we were also supposed to check in with customs and immigration, the marina, etc, etc. So I got out of the rack too early and did the drill. Everyone was very friendly and laid back, fairly efficient. We moved the boat over to our reserved slip in the marina and the guys headed for home. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIDfR88Lzv9-dLO4GoJIe7fnW52hIRBo-y9XYXBzoxkr9Ugl2hocZxVradD8PFw-9NzDjysPaWyjo7aRtMcf78992G5qAB_m71hG-TM9gj6H-twNWAALoJ2Ty7VHhP8qc9RGwLA-YBVc37/s1600/IMG_2277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIDfR88Lzv9-dLO4GoJIe7fnW52hIRBo-y9XYXBzoxkr9Ugl2hocZxVradD8PFw-9NzDjysPaWyjo7aRtMcf78992G5qAB_m71hG-TM9gj6H-twNWAALoJ2Ty7VHhP8qc9RGwLA-YBVc37/s320/IMG_2277.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See any bread?</td></tr>
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So, Atlantic crossing, been done before but not by us. 3018 nautical miles under the keel on our far southern route. 17 days, 17 hours and 50 minutes from the dock at Pasito Blanco, Grand Canary Island to the tie-up at Rodney Bay Marina, St. Lucia. Average speed equals 7.08 knots. Not too bad for a 42 foot boat with no real effort made to go fast. We rarely had more than one sail up and most of the voyage was done under poled out 150% genoa alone. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKkRQGntW_bcXc1oZYEV9ZFJgghkJXOFKnqdwZeWI688smEg_hKa0iUWI8pogDMEUlcZXQ2dZOGwV-rlOWf5FC5Ad62q5GbEvzhjyct1-U8YKOthTMfMnbBjp-sf_TVNdtGRgM_AzeiKiQ/s1600/IMG_2406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKkRQGntW_bcXc1oZYEV9ZFJgghkJXOFKnqdwZeWI688smEg_hKa0iUWI8pogDMEUlcZXQ2dZOGwV-rlOWf5FC5Ad62q5GbEvzhjyct1-U8YKOthTMfMnbBjp-sf_TVNdtGRgM_AzeiKiQ/s320/IMG_2406.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poled out 150% genoa. Note the solar panels on the deck!</td></tr>
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We motored about forty hours through one stretch of light air but on the whole had plenty of wind to stay powered up. Since the solar panels were down for much of the trip and the fridge was using excessive power before it quit entirely we ran the engine for battery charging when the wind generator couldn’t entirely keep up with the loads. But we probably burned less than forty gallons of fuel. I’ll know how much after we top off the tank. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh16jDBSbHox3BlXEHysavVbke2OlznITGCyGWw6ugFafM_9ZQYw-klGvnxE4GwVOBwePWTowiDkRudN3x3ac-CZChNtG8JjI7fqVx3xSXU4RXOTKL-5t-V9EECcW__4PCaC0yUeVQkv6yP/s1600/IMG_2391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh16jDBSbHox3BlXEHysavVbke2OlznITGCyGWw6ugFafM_9ZQYw-klGvnxE4GwVOBwePWTowiDkRudN3x3ac-CZChNtG8JjI7fqVx3xSXU4RXOTKL-5t-V9EECcW__4PCaC0yUeVQkv6yP/s320/IMG_2391.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Atlantic sunrise</td></tr>
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The good stuff? The boat remained structurally sound. That may seem like a given but it is not. Stuff happens out here and one should be thankful when the big things stay put.<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASUhV9hmqe3aDsOcBLdQe5lcJobWPGwgIwkG4ytTVMrzAIwa3kyGsV6t40jpnDShMkoq92nVzWAMYHlVYH9zV3oQkQUXoXSgPM91kSk6NbNsk67712LWVxqWzUKHq0Uz_nCn8CqDf6iAo/s1600/IMG_0326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhASUhV9hmqe3aDsOcBLdQe5lcJobWPGwgIwkG4ytTVMrzAIwa3kyGsV6t40jpnDShMkoq92nVzWAMYHlVYH9zV3oQkQUXoXSgPM91kSk6NbNsk67712LWVxqWzUKHq0Uz_nCn8CqDf6iAo/s320/IMG_0326.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Would you cross an ocean with these guys?</td></tr>
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The crew worked well together, we had a great time and other than the usual minor ‘boat bites’ nobody got hurt. What could four airline pilots, two of them ex-marines, three of us at university together, with about 100,000 hours of combined flight experience and 150 years in the airline industry find to talk about? Lies, all lies! Norton and I solved our nation’s financial difficulties. Dan worked really hard cooking and that was greatly appreciated. Booth was the fisherman this trip and caught some nice eating size Mahi Mahi to supplement the diet.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitQfwbJIA9JZdrsuEC9rTh0QT3K6siZLolXwmhRcrHVR7POhkRXYwUolX_ruSJhK0NOd7_XXpYtavBEtEYXkjWB5hbFCfuv42Wny8O4YJWhboeM-DwprabVZUy9bPobd6xwqpGB8iefVpe/s1600/IMG_2402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitQfwbJIA9JZdrsuEC9rTh0QT3K6siZLolXwmhRcrHVR7POhkRXYwUolX_ruSJhK0NOd7_XXpYtavBEtEYXkjWB5hbFCfuv42Wny8O4YJWhboeM-DwprabVZUy9bPobd6xwqpGB8iefVpe/s320/IMG_2402.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mahi Mahi</td></tr>
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Commanders Weather provided forecasting and they were quite good as they always have been for us. I think as pilots and life long outdoors people we could qualify at least as amateur weather forecasters but I like to have a professional opinion for long passages and it has always proven to be reassuring. Its still hard to make the transition from dealing with a weather system in a matter of hours or minutes to taking days. Its the 600 knots versus 6 knots syndrome. We had decent winds for most of the trip from astern or nearly so.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0t2Wg0PTjiYdkwXVuuSzcQaPJwB3bC1SzlYjbd-1bb3qfrSN5IAmwKq6KbNL4YBPl_e42ghJ4hkDEDKUu0mXw2aBk3NI1Kx9o9dwxV2690gjSEMVwd625UXD7Rzw0811UAO7JcOXhYqG9/s1600/IMG_0351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0t2Wg0PTjiYdkwXVuuSzcQaPJwB3bC1SzlYjbd-1bb3qfrSN5IAmwKq6KbNL4YBPl_e42ghJ4hkDEDKUu0mXw2aBk3NI1Kx9o9dwxV2690gjSEMVwd625UXD7Rzw0811UAO7JcOXhYqG9/s320/IMG_0351.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rolling along</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
I was very pleased with the new Hydrovane XT-Vane. Other than a problem, later solved, that I probably caused way back in Turkey by not assembling something properly, the self-steering gear, both wind vane and autopilot, worked very well. <br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJoPEwH80qz5nOSRXIQtcWon7Al9Yjc74lkxdbJPn5QqNFkhpFsmbaOuqeFs17Sntmjiamu-A2g4_8p0u45MVQPAxoIYkTRgCG2NtXTsn570dFDwp-IslJMnlaXm8s2JVEbXPaev6oLVCX/s1600/IMG_0353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJoPEwH80qz5nOSRXIQtcWon7Al9Yjc74lkxdbJPn5QqNFkhpFsmbaOuqeFs17Sntmjiamu-A2g4_8p0u45MVQPAxoIYkTRgCG2NtXTsn570dFDwp-IslJMnlaXm8s2JVEbXPaev6oLVCX/s320/IMG_0353.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Filet of Mahi Mahi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We had lots of Dolphins around including one of the biggest pods I’ve ever seen on the way down towards the Cape Verdes. We had a small Humpback (I believe) whale follow us one afternoon acting much like a big Dolphin surfing down waves. We had a few interesting birds including some Fairy Terns which are lovely to see. And we had a couple shore birds come aboard far out to sea. I always feel sorry for those lost birdies. One took off towards Africa. Sayonara I’m afraid. But one stayed with us until a few miles off St. Lucia so that bird should have made it to land just fine.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpmm8e_7K9t3GSVFzNXZljN89orJVMyH-cqdimRGu8yTUb7qxzIOfYd42jzEDzmhjhDDGJgTyOU_XEXgcxGVBM95u_NqVvS3yCuJLdc2XggYlwJXsfu7SCPCF5Kbn1PBIMO5U7yG-kDa8e/s1600/IMG_2562.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpmm8e_7K9t3GSVFzNXZljN89orJVMyH-cqdimRGu8yTUb7qxzIOfYd42jzEDzmhjhDDGJgTyOU_XEXgcxGVBM95u_NqVvS3yCuJLdc2XggYlwJXsfu7SCPCF5Kbn1PBIMO5U7yG-kDa8e/s320/IMG_2562.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hitch hiker</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The not-so-good-stuff? We had a little damage and a few systems failures. Somehow a preventer must have been loose during one of the squally nights and a slam jibe took place. Actually multiple slam jibes. The preventer and snatch block broke and the main sheet got hooked on the solar panels and ripped them off the dodger while ripping up the dodger canvas pretty well. At least the panels stayed on board and appear to be undamaged. The dodger stuff is fixable. Some tubes are going to have to be re-bent.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNkfQquBgtieaVrxpDIhl3t-3NlKW524LVFBJekJnxU9oY-MBlq8hoy6Q9RgvkJOrrMUZ0WR5voLw0FhwnIaweEiChmFDO8Smt2aemrBT18F_l7usmYNONDLKYrmG7gln43tsnh_84tQg1/s1600/IMG_0333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNkfQquBgtieaVrxpDIhl3t-3NlKW524LVFBJekJnxU9oY-MBlq8hoy6Q9RgvkJOrrMUZ0WR5voLw0FhwnIaweEiChmFDO8Smt2aemrBT18F_l7usmYNONDLKYrmG7gln43tsnh_84tQg1/s320/IMG_0333.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mixing bread in rough conditions</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The fridge had been working normally, it seemed, but it hadn’t been topped off with coolant in some time. Didn’t seem necessary. It started using a lot of amps and then eventually quit cooling entirely. Bummer. But I had it serviced yesterday and its now working as it should. Oh well. From now on it gets topped off annually whether it seems to need it or not.</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpq2LTysB83QMby5FSegw6Vd2cQrqk6ogRu8SFocJzHOriNcTUeSJj37GYOgWlXLWI7pdtkpT6dC5KyPwq3ArQu9qb7jDfY-pvsZM28Kkn0iLLvqInb7qtXCfnYZXUnCxom4WewDW6fsoe/s1600/IMG_0339.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpq2LTysB83QMby5FSegw6Vd2cQrqk6ogRu8SFocJzHOriNcTUeSJj37GYOgWlXLWI7pdtkpT6dC5KyPwq3ArQu9qb7jDfY-pvsZM28Kkn0iLLvqInb7qtXCfnYZXUnCxom4WewDW6fsoe/s320/IMG_0339.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soda bread ready for the oven</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
The inverter died. This one was purchased in Turkey three years ago. The only 110VAC inverter in all Turkey I was told at the time. It was not really a marine unit and it wasn’t expensive but it did the job until it got wet. I had a spare, actually two spares, and we suffered not. It will be replaced today. <br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQ5iIGoDZ-uy9bL7rUQbRvDMUAIn2GwAgrcie6aN20YTLm7JbIVBlE8ppnudeNIKpplwomZ9OzX8zwGjrSyQK2Nzz0wHJAuntl-G9nLDAHAEdUwolG50OVdJ1Q0PNHH76jKm_fb5Sw9i-/s1600/IMG_0337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQ5iIGoDZ-uy9bL7rUQbRvDMUAIn2GwAgrcie6aN20YTLm7JbIVBlE8ppnudeNIKpplwomZ9OzX8zwGjrSyQK2Nzz0wHJAuntl-G9nLDAHAEdUwolG50OVdJ1Q0PNHH76jKm_fb5Sw9i-/s320/IMG_0337.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delicious banana bread</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We started getting a massive deck leak from around the mast. Whenever it rained the water just poured in around the mast boot. Yesterday I tore into the mast deck fitting and found a rip in the rubber seal around the mast. It was in the perfect position that any water running down the mast was nicely funneled right into the interior of the boat. That has been temporarily fixed and I’ll see about the permanent fix maybe this afternoon. That water leak is what killed the inverter. <br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxmz5U6RpmBmqmk5IKFkxS_j8_AKaUY8IWdq2QiK_ZJy4iV51xJyuqP1ZpLfWHHEyeIIoyRbNsJrJZd5cegC3STz9DqFx1ZCLlJWAWbElr9TvAGZtiJCTLIUs6vGEXP_LKeuK-5I0HIHVI/s1600/IMG_2589.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxmz5U6RpmBmqmk5IKFkxS_j8_AKaUY8IWdq2QiK_ZJy4iV51xJyuqP1ZpLfWHHEyeIIoyRbNsJrJZd5cegC3STz9DqFx1ZCLlJWAWbElr9TvAGZtiJCTLIUs6vGEXP_LKeuK-5I0HIHVI/s320/IMG_2589.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pasta primo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
We lost a mainsail batten early on. First one that’s ever came out of that sail. We also had a mainsail luff car break. The first failure of any kind in this Selden Mast system. I consider that to be a very excellent record considering its got about 30,000 miles on it so far. <br /><br />Weather nastiness? Yep, seems we had more than our share of night time tropical squalls and a few were rather on the intense side. Winds over fifty knots at times. Throw in some very early AM cooling aloft and a little positive vorticity advection and things can go boom in the night. But the sneaky thing was that they weren’t really going ‘boom’. Often no lightning and never any thunder and sometimes not even much radar return but plenty of wind and rain. Interesting. At least we had no lightning strikes. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIAkfFyyU3GUrapEsRPbe4kn_YvB-d2F9JsVC1rKpnEhqEerd4qePT66I5jZ0xfeRDznelwQIVliVcXU0rSY_h7NVCjHWphSYxq6pudkOl5cjjDTRqFWmMAv7kbdEKIIcWCv07MSSssgsy/s1600/IMG_2591.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIAkfFyyU3GUrapEsRPbe4kn_YvB-d2F9JsVC1rKpnEhqEerd4qePT66I5jZ0xfeRDznelwQIVliVcXU0rSY_h7NVCjHWphSYxq6pudkOl5cjjDTRqFWmMAv7kbdEKIIcWCv07MSSssgsy/s320/IMG_2591.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Position plotting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The entrance to Rodney Bay Marina was rather a challenge at night. The very narrow passage has probably the smallest and most indistinct marker lights I’ve ever seen and no markings once past the entrance. We kind of felt our way into the bay. At least the lights were functioning but you couldn’t make them out beyond about fifty yards. Luckily the GPS charting is spot on but I never trust the charting until that’s proven. It all worked out but it was an interesting end to a long passage.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHMFPuKeHLyjsfvgRsCP7m-XwLqdkyXGCFFDFmWy78uL9O8SZBcA0gvj0w_Aqwv_RLMD3CowB7Avo1yYO0ULMGwU55f7xn5IQtKMwUHttNu22dsEZA3DfGJ6sTVtUAbL_-oAC6TdIbkr8Z/s1600/IMG_2579.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHMFPuKeHLyjsfvgRsCP7m-XwLqdkyXGCFFDFmWy78uL9O8SZBcA0gvj0w_Aqwv_RLMD3CowB7Avo1yYO0ULMGwU55f7xn5IQtKMwUHttNu22dsEZA3DfGJ6sTVtUAbL_-oAC6TdIbkr8Z/s320/IMG_2579.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final day at sea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
So I’m in St. Lucia. I don’t have a “bucket list” but this passage has always been part of the plan and its good to have it behind us. It was one of those things that qualify as an unforgettable experience but I won’t be looking for a way to do it again. The almost endless roll was less than a pleasure. The guys were spring loaded to get home so we had no post passage celebration. Janet will be here the 13th and that will be quite wonderful. We plan on being in St. Lucia until about the 25th when we’ll head direct to Bonaire. I’ve got plenty of boat jobs to do to keep me out of trouble. <br /><br />Love to all,<br />Bill & Janet, Bill Norton, Dan Strehlow and Booth Devitt<br />SV Airstream<br /><br /><br /><br /></div>
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<br>
<br>In general things have gone very well. Dan has kept us well fed. The man actually seems to like cooking on the boat. Whatta guy! Booth does most of the clean up. Norton and I provide moral support.
<br>
<br>The boat is keeping the ocean on the outside like a good boat should but we have broken a few things. The fridge seemed to be running more and more continuously, a bad sign, and then pretty much stopped cooling despite the non-stop operation. Almost certainly we developed a coolant leak. We shut it down a couple days ago and have been eating everything that might have needed refrigeration.
<br>
<br> A few nights ago in brisk conditions and lots of roll we were with running the main up and got an inadvertent slam jibe despite the preventer we always have rigged. On the almost immediate slam jibe back the broken preventer caught the solar panels mounted on the dodger and ripped them off along with mashing up the dodger rails and canvas pretty well. This looked worse than it proved to be and in these events I'm always just happy that no one got hurt. The boom smashing around in the night could easily kill somebody and I believe the crew now has the proper "respect" for what can happen.
<br>
<br>A Hydrovane tube sleeve slipped out of place. Probably because I didn't re-mount it properly three years ago in Marmais so we've been using the autopilot to steer. This rough sea should begin to calm down today and get reasonably flat tomorrow and the plan is get the solar panels and the Hydrovane back in action when we can work in better conditions. The dodger canvas will be repaired in St. Lucia. We've broken several hundred dollars worth of snatch blocks used on preventers and those will be replaced as well.
<br>
<br>Booth has been trailing a hand line and has caught two nice Mahi Mahi so far. Great eating fresh Mahi! We had a small Humpback whale trailing us like a dolphin for an hour or so yesterday. We had very large pods of dolphins a few days ago. We've had Storm Petrels, a Booby, some Fairy Terns and some other nondescript Petrels around occasionally. All good company.
<br>
<br>So wish us luck for the rest of the passage. I'll mix in some photos when we get to some fast internet.
<br>
<br>Love to all,
<br>Bill, Bill, Booth and Dan
<br>
<br>----------
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<br>
<br>January 28th about 1300Z and we're about half way to St. Lucia depending on how you want to look at the possibilities. Distance? Time enroute? 1455 nautical miles under the keel so far. Anyway, we're making good progress in less than completely comfortable conditions. That translates as roll, roll, roll and it hasn't stopped for about four days now. The forecasts call for another day, maybe two, of these strong ENE trade winds with a mixed 6-10 swell from the east through the north, thus the rolling conditions. We've been making about 170 miles per day under the main alone with a single reef. Haven't flown a headsail in days. Come Saturday its supposed to start quieting down and wind is to vear around to being directly out of the east. Hopefully we can make as good a speed with more sail in more comfort. It has gotten warmer and we're not wearing fleece jackets much now. Nothing new has broken, wait a second, we had a winch handle get broken off during our jibe to port this morning. That after being about as careful as possible. There's a lot of power once that boom starts coming across in these conditions.
<br>
<br>So we've got plenty of food and water and we're warm and dry. For what more can we ask? Actually………oh well. With a little luck we'll be in port by the eighth or ninth of February.
<br>
<br>Love to all,
<br>Bill, Bill, Dan and Booth
<br>
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<br>
<br>We departed Pasito Blanco at 1200Z on the 19th as planned and things have gone very well. No one has been the slightest sea sick. Dan has been cooking up some great meals and the BS sessions began on departure and have only quit for sleep and food. We have all flown together so long and know so many of the same folks and all have enough history that the stories may very well last the next two weeks till this little jaunt is completed.
<br>
<br>The boat is holding up pretty well so far. We did lose a mainsail batten. The retaining pocket velcro came loose. First time that's ever happened with these sails. A mainsail mast car also broke, another first, and the first failure of any kind we've had from this Selden rig in more than 25000 miles. No complaints. My main worry is that these old UK Halsey sails may finally give up. They also have more than 25000 miles on them. Please sails, stay in one piece until we get to St. Lucia.
<br>
<br>This blog post is being made via HF radio and Sailmail. Because about the fastest speed we're likely to get is roughly 6000 BITES PER MINUTE there are no photos and updates will be brief. Please follow our progress on the Pangolin Yotreps website as described in the previous post. Presently, 1643Z, our position is: 19.12N, 25.14W.
<br>
<br>So all is well. We're reasonably comfortable and very well fed. Wish us luck!
<br>
<br>Love to all,
<br>Bill Wickman, Dan Strehlow, Booth Devitt and Bill Norton
<br>
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Ahoy sports fans,<br />
<br />
I'm back. Janet will pass on this little voyage and join me on arrival. Tomorrow, the 19th, if all continues to go well we will depart Pasito Blanco Marina on Grand Canary Island to begin the Atlantic crossing bound for St. Lucia.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prepare to launch!</td></tr>
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The boat was in good condition after sitting on the hard since we left in September. Launch went well and most boat jobs have been completed. My buddies who will act as crew, Bill Norton, Dan Strehlow and Booth DeVitt arrived yesterday as scheduled. I’ve been friends and flown with Bill and Dan for forty years and Booth for nearly twenty. They did the New Zealand to Fiji passage with me in 2009 and we attempted the Indian Ocean trip but were stymied by lack of wind. Bill did the passage down here from Gibraltar with Janet and me. So these guys are great friends and experienced crew. The weather looks to be shaping up nicely. We have every hope for a nice passage of about eighteen days. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxeeZsBCy6OW-n8CIOM66tL5b5I1HPVKqGVfFs2O0bkOq7WJ5rhHu7Q67piNXh_PaHsbgKzDlxTdW-xVK6izg78oDSVBA4gL5pnkohVzmE21-lHGS2xGfew6VJ2IEAKtuIiof1gXLnBHSS/s1600/P4020078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxeeZsBCy6OW-n8CIOM66tL5b5I1HPVKqGVfFs2O0bkOq7WJ5rhHu7Q67piNXh_PaHsbgKzDlxTdW-xVK6izg78oDSVBA4gL5pnkohVzmE21-lHGS2xGfew6VJ2IEAKtuIiof1gXLnBHSS/s320/P4020078.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same bunch that left New Zealand in 2009</td></tr>
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You can follow our progress on the Pangolin “Yotreps” website at: http://www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps_reporting_boat_list This site will give you a list of boats reporting a position. Just scroll down to KI6IKE (our HAM call sign) Airstream and click on ‘track’ and it will show our latest reported position and track. We’ll try to update daily. I’ll also be updating the blog via HF radio but since the email capacity of HF is very limited the updates will be very short, no photos, and there will be no email update notifications sent out. Just check occasionally if you’re interested. I’ll fill in with with photos, etc, after arrival in St. Lucia. <br />
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So please wish us a bon voyage. For now, its just us smelly old guys out to have a pleasant (we hope) adventure.<br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet, and Booth, Danny and Bill</div>
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Its a sunny afternoon. I'm laid back in my favorite chair with a friendly cat curled up beside me. Blue skies and and the view of a relatively sedate North Pacific out beyond Clam Beach remind me once again why we live here. Getting away from it all is not the reason we go sailing. </div>
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The trip home went exactly as planned. We purchased full fare tickets on Iberia from Las Palmas up to London Heath Row. The four hour flight was OK. It was really Iberia Express which is Iberia's answer to the low cost carrier fad complete with the usual BS to be suffered on these airlines.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grand Canary Island interior terrain</td></tr>
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But the trip was on time and we were met by Dennis and Janet Knight who are cruising friends from way back. We spent two nice days at their lovely place in South Hampton seeing a part of the UK new to us and very much a center of sailing activity. The countryside was beautiful, the village pubs quite nice and the local Ferrari dealership definitely my kind of toy land. Thank you to Dennis and Janet!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Dennis and Janet in Hamble</td></tr>
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As lowly non-rev type airline retirees we still got nice business class seats on Delta to MSP and then good seats in coach onwards to SFO. Very nice. We rented a car and spent the night at Janet's sister and her husband's very cool home in Mill Valley before driving north the next day. Ahhh, home again, home again, tired but happy.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With my nephew Scott DeVries in MSP, his first jet job!</td></tr>
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The boat is on the hard at Pasito Blanco Marina on the south side of Grand Canary Island. The haul out was well done and the situation at Pasito Blanco seems secure and well protected. The marina staff is very nice and eager to please. Of course the Canaries are no longer in the Med but they are part of Spain and in many ways it seems like we're still in the Med.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haul out at Pasito Blanco</td></tr>
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After three cruising seasons in the Mediterranean its time to look back and offer some opinions on what we found and experienced. And first I must qualify everything by saying we by no means saw it all. We have friends who have spent more than ten years in the Med and haven't seen it all. If we've learned anything in our eight years of cruising its that you can never see it all, anywhere. We saw a nice slice of the Turkish coast, quite a bit of the Aegean, traveled pretty extensively in Greece and have seen a fair amount of the Ionian Sea. We've come across the southern Med to Malta, Sicily, Sardinia, the Balearic Islands and the Spanish mainland. We've seen about half the Spanish Mediterranean coast and some of the major Spanish cities. The list of what we haven't seen would be much longer. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our friend Agustin' Martin' at Pasito Blanco</td></tr>
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First of all we're glad we did the Med. We had always planned to do the Indian Ocean/ Red Sea route into the Mediterranean from SE Asia but the pirate situation in the Gulf of Aden made that less appealing. Ultimately shipping the boat to Marmaris was the right thing for us and we have no regrets about that decision. <br />
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For a non-EU boat and crew the Schengen rules are a background headache. Its a perfect example of the foolishness and futility of mega-scale bureaucratic over regulation. It all came to nothing but it is a bother and could be really painful if one is unlucky enough to attract the regulatory eye.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cathedral in Las Palmas, Grand Canary</td></tr>
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The big positives: the beauty of the Turkish coast and the Aegean Islands, especially the Dodecanese, the layer upon layer of history to be experienced across the entire region, great food in Greece and Italy, decent and friendly people everywhere, beautiful weather (most of the time), lovely clear (if rather barren) seas, wonderful art and architecture to be found in many cities, driving around the Sardinian countryside, we loved much of Spain, all in all a wonderful cultural experience.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moorish and Christian, the Mesquita, Cordoba</td></tr>
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The negatives: hordes of charter boats who haven't the faintest idea what they're doing out there, the Mediterranean sense of space in an anchorage, over crowding in general by the standards of much of the world, either too much or too little wind and usually in the wrong direction, the expense of many places, the lack of cruiser camaraderie, most of these people are on a short holiday and the friendship bond formed by long term cruisers just isn't a factor.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fair well to Greece, my second home.</td></tr>
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So we're glad we did it and we'd do it all again. But now its time to move on and the boat is in position to start the Atlantic crossing when we return in January of 2016. Janet has sworn off that roughly three week passage and I'll do it with the same guys who did NZL-Fiji with me several years ago. Should be a great trip. Thanks for reading and please stay tuned. We should be back in action in a few months.<br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream<br />
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That's aviation humor folks. Best said whilst hoisting a cold libation with fellow pilots at a favorite water hole, in a great hotel, nearly half way around the world from where they all started about sixteen hours previously. But it can apply in the cruising world as well. The camaraderie is a very big part of the pleasure. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNLg6Cs3CcQ18dAxCjmafwxSHwk6wXidqVU4DUX3FMxhJZ5p_h0eSeKpn_BkCsDM1xDSKSycIhRIvoWis47XH4GND4fRrAmTpFwgltyJkMsuFLR9acvUF8MfHaUD2mLsdNKHaYyjJJ6RL5/s1600/IMG_7728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNLg6Cs3CcQ18dAxCjmafwxSHwk6wXidqVU4DUX3FMxhJZ5p_h0eSeKpn_BkCsDM1xDSKSycIhRIvoWis47XH4GND4fRrAmTpFwgltyJkMsuFLR9acvUF8MfHaUD2mLsdNKHaYyjJJ6RL5/s320/IMG_7728.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Rock of Gibraltar on departure</td></tr>
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So we made it to the Canary Islands pretty much as planned. Four days, twenty hours and twenty minutes enroute, docks lines off at Queensway Quay Marina in Gibraltar to lines on at Pasito Blanco Marina on Gran Canarie Island. Seven hundred and sixty two miles at an average speed of 6.6 knots. All in all a nice passage with no problems. Sorry, I take that back, a slider failed on one of the dodger window zippers. We're not complaining very much.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGFumrQjYHhyVe23JDnakx885G9kenmWCjEpznTXNmm_RrJKGCAx99PRDOdDZk3yL6eiqGWl2J3nHORvGde3IhygqOLJ9al6uThR0Sy5Bdpt3552heIRN-pbi6Nu3CMHn2vfjziBg0t99G/s1600/IMG_7739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGFumrQjYHhyVe23JDnakx885G9kenmWCjEpznTXNmm_RrJKGCAx99PRDOdDZk3yL6eiqGWl2J3nHORvGde3IhygqOLJ9al6uThR0Sy5Bdpt3552heIRN-pbi6Nu3CMHn2vfjziBg0t99G/s320/IMG_7739.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Departure traffic</td></tr>
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Leaving Gib was interesting. Currents and tides through the strait are a major factor. I used the waypoints recommended in Jimmy Cornell's books and that was fine. In conjunction with those I took the advice of all the guides and we departed Gib two hours after high tide. That also worked well. We had adverse, but not too strong, tides for the first half of the strait and positive tides for the later portions. I think if I were doing it again I might, after clearing Punta Carnaroo where there are some shallows, hug the north coast a lot closer. There seemed to be local traffic on that path that may have been in a counter current or at least escaping the main flow. Then I'd go out at Point Tarifa and cross the strait towards the waypoints Cornell recommends. I certainly would not leave against a west wind, wait for an easterly. As it was we had no problem and escaped the strait easily. There is traffic but its of little concern to anyone who's experienced the traffic around Singapore. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyB3jmoYL2PXF8pLl-PAxPLvpFpsNeyz95hAmdCPNCTDPhzgbdJhPk-giQLKRk7ZgUgG71UaPP62EbeXlIDatQp6XvRIMvJo3vJnQpd3a5QIfQ7wVVGrdTJnaIMlpEA8CE3C-9QXsw0VrU/s1600/IMG_7743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyB3jmoYL2PXF8pLl-PAxPLvpFpsNeyz95hAmdCPNCTDPhzgbdJhPk-giQLKRk7ZgUgG71UaPP62EbeXlIDatQp6XvRIMvJo3vJnQpd3a5QIfQ7wVVGrdTJnaIMlpEA8CE3C-9QXsw0VrU/s320/IMG_7743.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passing Point Tarifa into the Atlantic Ocean</td></tr>
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We had light air and actually were on a close reach with main and genoa for the first day. Then the NE trades filled in and we had 15-20 knots most of the way. The acceleration zones around the islands are very real and we encountered that phenomenon at four in the morning approaching Gran Canarie. We may have had thirty knots in gusts that morning. Be advised! Most of the trip was done flying the full main alone but we did set the asymmetrical chute for several hours one afternoon, went wing on wing with the poled out 150 genoa for the last afternoon and had a reef in the main for a day or so as well. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX8Zapg7vcplb6oZ1WNC20cPXZf4I7HmouNeC5pff86JPFl8x458IFC9w1T10rwc3y39ib6fFcJ9qrolUrOAvp1XY6V10_AP7yy86HFUwkO8xGOjJaIYyA0c6IoERx2XgJPLOIgRYvn3IE/s1600/IMG_7746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX8Zapg7vcplb6oZ1WNC20cPXZf4I7HmouNeC5pff86JPFl8x458IFC9w1T10rwc3y39ib6fFcJ9qrolUrOAvp1XY6V10_AP7yy86HFUwkO8xGOjJaIYyA0c6IoERx2XgJPLOIgRYvn3IE/s320/IMG_7746.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">GPS screen enroute</td></tr>
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The Hydrovane did almost all the steering while under sail and worked very well as usual. The only time it needs help is when going fast down wind in light air. We were doing seven knots boat speed in twelve knots of wind, wing on wing, dead down, and that adds up to only five knots of relative wind over the wind vane, it needs more in those conditions. That, and motoring, is why we have an auto pilot.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBxg2Fe5IFawtTxmImSJmGyKgLsHiI7B71rkkJLwpusUwifVamp6Xg02njtCNma7zBhnSv4yl-MmdignD7LSCIp4YW1lWw3PvJYhDv3pqsTZEYvO2WTl5qtuHWfvMbGEupgGYf8_oFx9ou/s1600/IMG_7753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBxg2Fe5IFawtTxmImSJmGyKgLsHiI7B71rkkJLwpusUwifVamp6Xg02njtCNma7zBhnSv4yl-MmdignD7LSCIp4YW1lWw3PvJYhDv3pqsTZEYvO2WTl5qtuHWfvMbGEupgGYf8_oFx9ou/s320/IMG_7753.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Under chute and main'sl</td></tr>
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Bill Norton joined us for the trip. Bill and I have been friends and have flown together since university days forty years ago. He also did the NZL to Fiji voyage with us back in 2009. Bill was great crew and great fun as always. Thanks Bill! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI47ojCTtFzmGbjVTysmArw6-MLfddQJJUT7MqyqRtTmTE6EdMsW5QkxBPfn-3RCRui8uj6sQTqHgRrIg7RIq0f_qV8oJZMcjiloSJxIVc7rArgox75Bci8lsL0mwfbtIYLYyhCkfLFJWy/s1600/IMG_7724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI47ojCTtFzmGbjVTysmArw6-MLfddQJJUT7MqyqRtTmTE6EdMsW5QkxBPfn-3RCRui8uj6sQTqHgRrIg7RIq0f_qV8oJZMcjiloSJxIVc7rArgox75Bci8lsL0mwfbtIYLYyhCkfLFJWy/s320/IMG_7724.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thanks Bill</td></tr>
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We've been in touch with Agustin' Martin' of the Seven Seas Cruising Association for several years. Agustin' lives at Pasito Blanco and has been a fun and valuable contact. He even arranged for someone at the marina to meet us when we arrived in the dark early on the morning of the 26th. Janet was very surprised when someone answered our radio call once we were in range. Much more surprised that someone spoke good English and was there to help us moor. Entering a strange harbor at night is not something we usually do but this place seemed so well organized and well marked it was reasonable.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIYbi0wI28vV7UfjULQW_BqE575oyo-ailHWGy4ZWIoA3E9E7zNm6vsNNsZ_qmU2XXE-sXf3o8X_ugTTWsPyHk4DVwz_BkMQQDAwG1T2VPDRD3YN_c6NVNQRrIACt3gO4_YJnr5juJ0JEJ/s1600/IMG_7759+-+Version+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIYbi0wI28vV7UfjULQW_BqE575oyo-ailHWGy4ZWIoA3E9E7zNm6vsNNsZ_qmU2XXE-sXf3o8X_ugTTWsPyHk4DVwz_BkMQQDAwG1T2VPDRD3YN_c6NVNQRrIACt3gO4_YJnr5juJ0JEJ/s320/IMG_7759+-+Version+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pasito Blanco Marina view from the beach</td></tr>
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So now we're quite comfortable and learning the ropes around Gran Canarie. We have rented a car for the duration. We took Bill to the airport. We drove up to Las Palmas today and got our passports stamped. We'll explore the island. We've got the usual jobs to do putting the boat to bed for a few months. We haul it out on the 2nd and depart the 4th of September to visit Dennis and Janet Knight in South Hampton for a couple days. We're looking forward to that and to getting home. Its been a great summer, two thousand seven hundred and sixty six miles under the keel this season. <br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet Wickman<br />
SV Airstream</div>
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Hello to Everyone,</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlT7TG2PcnVs7aALNkzIaGv3I1fvaJJT15bpkhNSTGfIZPBJdNO1Z9LyyLazhETwyU54kcb0kY8BfF9VYyNoxW3PFvNolUz1w54mWajGcUfTfonZg5zk5UhS2PiVOr6VjdhPZOSgKESeNz/s1600/IMG_7300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlT7TG2PcnVs7aALNkzIaGv3I1fvaJJT15bpkhNSTGfIZPBJdNO1Z9LyyLazhETwyU54kcb0kY8BfF9VYyNoxW3PFvNolUz1w54mWajGcUfTfonZg5zk5UhS2PiVOr6VjdhPZOSgKESeNz/s320/IMG_7300.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nobody uses these but its a good photo!</td></tr>
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We're in 'Gib' at least until our planned departure on the 21st. The weather for the passage to the Canaries is shaping up very nicely, light NW winds increasing and veering more to the north as we get further south, a following current of about half a knot and following seas. What could go wrong? <br />
Bill Norton, an old flying friend who goes so far back neither of us can quite pin down when we actually met, will be joining us for the trip. Bill did the NZL to Fiji voyage with us so he knows Airstream and has plenty of experience in his own boats. Should be great fun.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgMVhl4f_kGK0Gc-eWQ8nrsDNitIXQlSLFsQjrNWwRnSyYTX1fwhX9tIHxv0U5JOiRBkmLxm-ud2PLqnbOrPgc8_4_voiaERm8wn0RLuaZlTDWjZ2A0I_1UhMdd0aXrMdapVe3dTOJgvyY/s1600/IMG_0279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgMVhl4f_kGK0Gc-eWQ8nrsDNitIXQlSLFsQjrNWwRnSyYTX1fwhX9tIHxv0U5JOiRBkmLxm-ud2PLqnbOrPgc8_4_voiaERm8wn0RLuaZlTDWjZ2A0I_1UhMdd0aXrMdapVe3dTOJgvyY/s320/IMG_0279.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Lounge, our favorite marina hangout.</td></tr>
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For anyone interested in following our progress here are two websites that are convenient. The first is: http://www.marinetraffic.com This site displays the position of all vessels equipped with Automatic Information Service, AIS. Since almost all commercial vessels are required to have AIS and since many pleasure craft now have it, including us, it gives a real time position, track and other information on almost everything out at sea. Just go to the website, click on 'vessels' , type in our boat name "Airstream", click on the name and you'll see the most current position and other data. Maybe a simpler way if you know roughly in the world where we are is to just start scrolling down on the world wide map which starts as listing the number of vessels in a given area. As you scroll down it starts displaying individual vessels and if you click on 'vessel names' it will name them. Just keep going on down till you find the craft you want and click on it and all available info is displayed. Very cool once you learn the site. <br />
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The second site is the Pangolin webpage at: http://www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps_reporting_boat_list This is the list of boats reporting their position by HAM radio to the Pangolin yotreps site. Just go to the page and you'll see a long list of boats by HAM call sign alphabetically. Our HAM call sign is: KI6IKE, Kilo India Six India Kilo Echo. Scroll down to our call sign and you'll see our boat name, click on 'track' and you'll see our position displayed. This is only a position we have reported by HAM to pangolin and usually just once a day. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiODj12aBGAK1B6H3muAP_kM7mDxlA3F3JOcUsPf2_HJrGoi9zAzcYTtDfc-aPgfsA6ghZnfXDUum1vJGMnDKja_ZS92rzvkONlAb8gYJFDJ_oplNld7Rra9zOrkaGArUZGkRvTLcMtZCB2/s1600/IMG_7596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiODj12aBGAK1B6H3muAP_kM7mDxlA3F3JOcUsPf2_HJrGoi9zAzcYTtDfc-aPgfsA6ghZnfXDUum1vJGMnDKja_ZS92rzvkONlAb8gYJFDJ_oplNld7Rra9zOrkaGArUZGkRvTLcMtZCB2/s320/IMG_7596.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Europa Point, furthest point south in Gibraltar</td></tr>
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So we've got most of our boat jobs done. We've done a lot of exploring around Gibraltar and a few days ago we did a day trip over to Morocco which was 'interesting'. There are no fast ferries from Gib to the Moroccan ports across the straits but a gazilion each day from the Spanish city across the bay, Algeciras. So when we saw a travel agency advert for a 59 Pound Sterling day trip to Ceuta, Tetouan and Tangiers we inquired within. 59 pounds got us a fast ferry to and from Ceuta, the Spanish enclave on the Moroccan coast, a bus tour to Tetouan and Tangiers, lunch, etc, etc. We knew there were a few little 'issues' here but decided to do it anyway.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Market scenes from Tetouan</td></tr>
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It involved a cab ride over to the ferry terminal at Algeciras, 30 EU each way, and a lot of time on the bus which was comfy enough and not crowded. We had a nice tour guide and an amusing if not particularly tasty lunch in an old palace in the market at Tetouan. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrLmAZpKOMxBL5RbI2s2qeyNXQ9IB0tHyyWgLxcbSgpHv-U03K9m4YJXBWM842JEnr1IY_D1joGca3V6YfOdusEkoMJUF6pvU8VG2_EK_-z25ElAE3toLXYJZ503MlWbVjzdaKixrOm7Tb/s1600/IMG_7684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrLmAZpKOMxBL5RbI2s2qeyNXQ9IB0tHyyWgLxcbSgpHv-U03K9m4YJXBWM842JEnr1IY_D1joGca3V6YfOdusEkoMJUF6pvU8VG2_EK_-z25ElAE3toLXYJZ503MlWbVjzdaKixrOm7Tb/s320/IMG_7684.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch in the medina</td></tr>
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We were led around the market areas of Tetouan and Tangiers. Arab rug merchants tried to sell us the usual stuff. The perfume guys were out in force but not as bad a Cairo years ago. And the bus ride through the Atlas Mountains was a nice view of the rugged coastal Moroccan countryside. On the way across the border from Spain into Morocco we saw the line for the border crossing back into Spain stretched for many miles. By the time we got back in the afternoon it was still at least as long. Our tour bus apparently had special powers because we went around most of the line but still waited over two hours to get through customs. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mosque in Tangiers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cat heaven, Tangiers</td></tr>
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I'm sure there were people in line that morning who were still there when we went past them in the evening, amazing! So we left the boat at seven in the morning and got back about eleven in the evening. Long day. Was it worth it? Maybe, but we wouldn't do it again. We spent more time on the bus than we did in Tetouan and Tangiers. Those cities are worth a visit as is much more of Morocco I'm sure. But it needs to be several days of planned out travel and we didn't feel like making that effort</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyB8LnUmWrVoqmd7sqZkt1QCATyv_HTPuICTxkgOKJ7qk7MvcJ-szNBRulUTFQyrhvDIrbg-AUtGpLK5Kvakn7PoC7z8nOJ-khF68ol8ZNxtIfgkn1Xb4ax-YBNb9sYLpAVbo3beJHB6Em/s1600/IMG_7693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyB8LnUmWrVoqmd7sqZkt1QCATyv_HTPuICTxkgOKJ7qk7MvcJ-szNBRulUTFQyrhvDIrbg-AUtGpLK5Kvakn7PoC7z8nOJ-khF68ol8ZNxtIfgkn1Xb4ax-YBNb9sYLpAVbo3beJHB6Em/s320/IMG_7693.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camera shy Berber women, Tetouan</td></tr>
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So soon, 'the good lord willing and the creek don't rise' , we'll be off to the Canaries, Posito Blanco Marina on Grand Canary Island to be specific. I'll probably send a short update to the blog via SailMail while we're enroute but no email notifications. Please wish us a "bon voyage"!<br />
<br />
Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream<br />
<br /></div>
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Madrid is a lovely, graceful city. After returning to Gibraltar from Seville and Cordoba we knew we were going to do some more land travel before departing for the Canaries. The question was, where? We had considered going down into Morocco to Casablanca or Marrakech. We looked into ways and means for a short, easy and inexpensive way to see what we wanted to see. Nothing seemed to quite work. And Madrid beckoned. We had enjoyed our travels in southern Spain, especially Seville, so it was just right and proper that we visit Madrid. <br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtCPD3HstNZag04QqjYsV5m-NQd0I870kCaWN6mYBufMXfmrfaQ-OkWpdnTJSZPUrptmY0l2R1RgkRt-ILzNKYQjbwMgYOCmlPN3QxLwqKZWTPVnUWW_g6HLQVcHm4G2zYdYkRg4TMGopT/s1600/IMG_7538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtCPD3HstNZag04QqjYsV5m-NQd0I870kCaWN6mYBufMXfmrfaQ-OkWpdnTJSZPUrptmY0l2R1RgkRt-ILzNKYQjbwMgYOCmlPN3QxLwqKZWTPVnUWW_g6HLQVcHm4G2zYdYkRg4TMGopT/s320/IMG_7538.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Plaza Major, Madrid, equestrian Philip III</td></tr>
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The train seemed the way to go. It would have been a long drive and we were tired of rental car logistics. Flying would not allow us to see the country and for both of us seeing the countryside is half the fun of a journey. For those who might be contemplating a little travel by train I very highly recommend the website, "The Man In Seat Sixty One": http://www.seat61.com This is really an amazing site with very comprehensive and detailed info on train travel anywhere in the world. We've used the site as a starting point for travel to a lot of places and it is a great resource. A more specific resource for those interested in train travel in Spain is: www.loco2.com which is a little easier place to buy tickets with a foreign credit card than the official site of the Spanish rail company Renfe.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Madrid, Fountain of Cebeles, protector of the people</td></tr>
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There are no trains out of Gibraltar so one takes a cab to the border, walks across, is waved through by customs on both sides, grabs a Spanish cab to to Algeciras, the Spanish city across the bay from Gibraltar and takes the train. In this case our taxi driver knew a little better way and took us to La Linea, between Gib and Algeciras, which was closer and more convenient and where we caught the same train we had purchased tickets for out of Algeciras. Saved us some time and money. First Class costs little more than tourist class and gives you a quieter and more spacious ride.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lions in front of the old Council of Deputies building</td></tr>
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The trip was five hours and the first the two and one half hours were spent at less than 50 miles an hour on an old road bed through the coastal mountains north of Gibraltar. But then, at some point in the country side after leaving the mountains, we switched engines and moved onto a new roadbed and things speeded up a lot. 200 km per hour (120 mph) was more like it and we were whizzing right along through country that, more than anywhere else in the world, reminded me of the American west. The mountains could have been the foothills of the Sierra and much of the interior plain could be western North Dakota or Eastern Montana. The more agricultural areas seemed much like the Sacramento Valley. True, there's generally more population than in high plains of the western USA, but the countryside is amazingly similar, big sky country, very appealing to my western sensibilities. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Madrid, Plaza del Toros</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Madrid, stadium of Real Madrid soccer team</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modern business Madrid</td></tr>
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Steven and Carol of Seabird had made plans to come in from Barcelona and Carol arranged hotel accommodations at a lovely hotel, the Catalonia Las Cortes, in a great location near the museums and the city center. She also booked us all on a guided bus tour so that the first thing we did was get the lay of land. Very handy in a city the size of Madrid. So for three nights we enjoyed lovely Madrid from a very nice hotel. I had expected to find a bustling, crowded, probably rather dirty but interesting city, perhaps a little shabby but with great art and museums. I was right about the art and museums but central Madrid is far more elegant and cleaner and more specious than most cities. The architecture is beautiful, the settings historic. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puerto del Sol, big Apple store on the corner</td></tr>
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We did a serious visit to the Museo del Prado and the Museo Thessyn-Bornemisza and a quick trip to the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia to see Picasso's "Guernica". Of course I knew the reputation of the Prado, which is very well deserved, but knew nothing of the Thessyn before planning this trip. It may be the finest private gallery in the world. I certainly enhanced my appreciation for Goya, and asking Janet, the Goya's and Gauguin's impressed her most.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statue of Goya at the Prado</td></tr>
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So we prowled the city center in the morning before the museums opened. Did museums until our feet were worn out and relaxed out of the heat until getting together again for dinners. Early dinner in Spain for the Spanish is around nine in the evening. Luckily many places are used to heathen foreigners and open earlier. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Velazquez??</td></tr>
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We loved Madrid. We had great fun with Steven and Carol. The trip back to Gibraltar went as planned. Now we're back on the boat and beginning to get into passage mode. Its cooled down a little and forecast to stay that way, the 'eighties' sure beats the 'one hundreds' as a temperature to live in all day. We had about given up on the idea of going over to Morocco but this morning we saw a travel agency ad that got our attention. We'll investigate that tomorrow.<br /><br />Love to all,<br />Bill & Janet<br />SV Airstream<br /><br /><br /></div>
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Hello Everyone, </div>
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Land travel! I know this supposed to be a sailing blog its really a travel blog. We're just using the slowest, most inefficient form of transport known, a sailboat. The plan has been for English speaking rather homey Gibraltar to be a base for some exploration of the Spanish wilds. And that plan is in action. Yesterday we got back from a car trip north to Seville, then east to Cordoba and back south to the coast and Gibraltar.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9mCMiJEDPPhkl2xtTa66AXcQ1k6wuit8UtlpUToECfa-Pn9_ahx8g7xyS3EfVT5yh8rr5vRzClvtLJBYxRkN8k937JDZW-OWVQ-V_l8XHXeWQxZfstnA1mMcJ-ioIfepVPdTyXIh5PSmW/s1600/IMG_7349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9mCMiJEDPPhkl2xtTa66AXcQ1k6wuit8UtlpUToECfa-Pn9_ahx8g7xyS3EfVT5yh8rr5vRzClvtLJBYxRkN8k937JDZW-OWVQ-V_l8XHXeWQxZfstnA1mMcJ-ioIfepVPdTyXIh5PSmW/s320/IMG_7349.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road trip Attire?</td></tr>
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Great trip. But very hot! It was one hundred and four degrees in Seville one day and over one hundred every day we were inland but at least it was also very dry. Driving north from Gibraltar the excellent highway took us through a low pass in the mountains and then down into the broad valley that forms the interior of Andalucia. It reminded us very much of coming out of the coastal range into the Sacramento Valley of central California. Its a rich agricultural area. Lots of wheat and corn. Huge fields of sun flowers and some form of bean. Some orchards and a few olives. Lovely, well tended and productive country. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Seville from the cathedral bell tower</td></tr>
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And Seville is a lovely city. Of course there are modern blocks of faceless apartment housing but much of the wonderful architecture is preserved, especially in the inner part of the city. We were only going to scratch the surface of what's to see in Seville but the the cathedral and the old Moorish Palace area, the Alcazar, were our main interests. We had also had the very nice treat of having Steven and Carol Argosy of Seabird use the train from Barcelona to be in Seville at the same time so that we could run around together. This is great fun for camaraderie starved Mediterranean cruisers. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGjC651Gbb27DP6fVAdgaXhIz7qmED8FCska6PYa_BCTZt6r2IblbXEeK7KTVyXIp8Gn8Eb6XHIC6boK80wmgeRh-1ycLZdcUQw-x0Bij_mSo50jaUTs4-T3PFmyVzXEFVIm3gcXTVMS8v/s1600/IMG_7336.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGjC651Gbb27DP6fVAdgaXhIz7qmED8FCska6PYa_BCTZt6r2IblbXEeK7KTVyXIp8Gn8Eb6XHIC6boK80wmgeRh-1ycLZdcUQw-x0Bij_mSo50jaUTs4-T3PFmyVzXEFVIm3gcXTVMS8v/s320/IMG_7336.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gardens of the Alcazar</td></tr>
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The Alcazar started as a fort in the ninth century and was gradually, over the next few hundred years, turned into a palace and garden residence complex for the Moorish rulers. When Seville was reconquered by the Christians in 1248 it was kept in use and the gardens and structures continued to be enlarged and modified. Its a beautiful conglomeration of Moorish and Spanish medieval art and architecture. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhed2ALg3Wz9goAEF3eFfO_0UpzNb9GNOEq3fCLQaFfInnSXEKc1NhNup0G0nkFwRovl684P0Nr_3MUwMbJ2pld5CibAhrzVj8J5gyblSKzVtc-gHwb2CMLoka4KA_T_2q-MkXENv9EJvUP/s1600/IMG_7356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhed2ALg3Wz9goAEF3eFfO_0UpzNb9GNOEq3fCLQaFfInnSXEKc1NhNup0G0nkFwRovl684P0Nr_3MUwMbJ2pld5CibAhrzVj8J5gyblSKzVtc-gHwb2CMLoka4KA_T_2q-MkXENv9EJvUP/s320/IMG_7356.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral exterior</td></tr>
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But there were two real highlights for us on this short trip to Seville. First is the Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede, as the Seville cathedral is officially known. Its the largest gothic cathedral in the world and the third largest Christian church. Its colossal in size and the the art work displayed throughout is simply beyond priceless. The exterior is so huge and it is sighted in such a manner that its difficult to get any one view of the building. The interior is stupendous and individual aisles and chapels are beautiful.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuzOK7H81G9dtq4eUnrqA11nxv_cRYCwccJyJRRCLg0rJ1JyHVgindMYCHLQl3Wg9y5myEUGP7mZ_rc7MLWzzkLgRzvVxjrE_jfzzaFzK6HBnQFsrBkOG13lbTSQZW3AnWvFlXve9QeeR4/s1600/IMG_7369.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuzOK7H81G9dtq4eUnrqA11nxv_cRYCwccJyJRRCLg0rJ1JyHVgindMYCHLQl3Wg9y5myEUGP7mZ_rc7MLWzzkLgRzvVxjrE_jfzzaFzK6HBnQFsrBkOG13lbTSQZW3AnWvFlXve9QeeR4/s320/IMG_7369.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral interior, part of one aisle</td></tr>
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As a whole it still doesn't work as well, doesn't inspire the awe of Chartres or Notre Dame or Canterbury (my favorites) but it is a bigger work and in many ways equally impressive. One thing, amongst many, that I particularly like is the tomb of Columbus. In the south transept the bones of the great navigator and explorer, one of my personal heroes, are appropriately encased and held aloft by the kings of arms, in bronze, of the four original reigns of Spain, Castile, Leon, Aragon and Navarre.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tomb of Christopher Columbus</td></tr>
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As a last remark on the magnificence of the cathedral Steven suggested that since Spain has economic problems, since the art work in the cathedral is so priceless and the building so huge, that the art be sold off and the building remodeled into condos. hmmmm……….I suggested that the Spanish have probably not forgotten how to draw and quarter a heretic………oh well <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_q8O4sIzI8eDCVLb0vESxrnmouNhY6CpMLhNZP_gpWfUrDzbDYuNdarjrFV_RlOwkIvgUUzSiRRHSrhHocQ4x6xVX8AnnAGNJkUdsALsghk13a0IgwvkJd76bO1L9mblFvwGKU1Y9Htz5/s1600/IMG_7358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_q8O4sIzI8eDCVLb0vESxrnmouNhY6CpMLhNZP_gpWfUrDzbDYuNdarjrFV_RlOwkIvgUUzSiRRHSrhHocQ4x6xVX8AnnAGNJkUdsALsghk13a0IgwvkJd76bO1L9mblFvwGKU1Y9Htz5/s320/IMG_7358.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bell tower</td></tr>
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And the second highlight of Seville was a little unexpected, that was Flamenco! I had said that before we left Spain, since the timing wasn't right for a good bull fight, I wanted to see some real flamenco. And since Seville is considered by many to be the heart of flamenco, Seville was the place. We asked around and got the same recommendation from multiple sources and it was that unless we waited until after midnight in some smokey flamenco bar the very best, maybe the very best anyway, was to be had at a flamenco museum or institute fairly near our hotels. So we made reservations, wondering what to expect, and went to the show.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flamenco!</td></tr>
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I think we all a little over whelmed by the quality of what we saw. I had thought it might be a rather sterile display of the 'art'. Far from that the setting was small and intimate. The guitarist wonderful and the singing and dance was full of all the passion and intensity one could ever hope to see. Great show! I would still like to see those same people in some smokey bar at two in the morning just for what their interaction with that audience might be but it was clear they got to everyone in our audience pretty well. Unforgettable. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tapas bar</td></tr>
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We also hit a nearby bull fighting bar for tapas and drinks afterwards. We knew we had a good place when the flamenco group we had just watched came in to unwind after the show. It was nice to thank them in person.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwrw9hWr-ll61tEI8dcqRk8O6D3VnNaCkOY09W8VWRBm__66PVRdyPND9vPL1uATJMRYpiVHmHFN7StSP3-Mqw8FE7-88SWEG8Fuazhb_EUs6-8kLscUiHjnxm0QoL_cqA1C3JWW8uiZ0n/s1600/IMG_7437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwrw9hWr-ll61tEI8dcqRk8O6D3VnNaCkOY09W8VWRBm__66PVRdyPND9vPL1uATJMRYpiVHmHFN7StSP3-Mqw8FE7-88SWEG8Fuazhb_EUs6-8kLscUiHjnxm0QoL_cqA1C3JWW8uiZ0n/s320/IMG_7437.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ole'</td></tr>
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Steven and Carol stayed in Seville another day and we were off the next morning to Cordoba. The main reason being to see the Mezquita, the huge and unique mosque/church in the oldest part of the city. And the Mezquita did not disappoint. It was very, very nice and made especially nice in that as we entered the relative cool of the the building, it was 103 degrees outside, we began to hear a magnificent organ in full song.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid04LBtuYZTEjEDxVOQk6f2E1XsxYh5_rm2nPSVzgj9Da2cje7kX8LkPyOnpApaewHt1WjBAFv1aVNmyZNrDnGsKXsACmMLziXTAU4kJinduEk0BZNZnBAZhF5rk6UoyK_ai85Lym8Hhs7/s1600/IMG_7451.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid04LBtuYZTEjEDxVOQk6f2E1XsxYh5_rm2nPSVzgj9Da2cje7kX8LkPyOnpApaewHt1WjBAFv1aVNmyZNrDnGsKXsACmMLziXTAU4kJinduEk0BZNZnBAZhF5rk6UoyK_ai85Lym8Hhs7/s320/IMG_7451.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">854 pilars in the Mezquita</td></tr>
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Bingo, we went through the wonderful 854 pillars with their red and white painted arches and into the the central Christian cathedral where the organist was just beginning to work with a technician on some factor in the centuries old and very huge pipe organ.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozQPN6Tx4V7WNMNhvgTlXu_Dnp_bz_YTE0S8raTiMUSp8mWRHI3bO84SNkl1LJcUUKNec2uFpYXaiVb0dd-yYnvzCwIho16un22JfQaq2oGoAZA5e1Ij_FEmmJ8RWdoTlwzVsvD3NrGg3/s1600/IMG_7495.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozQPN6Tx4V7WNMNhvgTlXu_Dnp_bz_YTE0S8raTiMUSp8mWRHI3bO84SNkl1LJcUUKNec2uFpYXaiVb0dd-yYnvzCwIho16un22JfQaq2oGoAZA5e1Ij_FEmmJ8RWdoTlwzVsvD3NrGg3/s320/IMG_7495.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very special treat from this guy!</td></tr>
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And most of what he did was just play and play beautifully. So for about an hour we got a wonderful concert in a wonderful setting. I think its only the second time I've ever been in a great cathedral and been able to listen to the music that's possible there. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG1gKln4BqlYVQz6SubNDtFM1hJjzKE0V6CGDATrZFQfPOtY71fppJmAGmSlrsLTjX8qWttrOZHHFA5gKLC5XAL7N-vh8gVaBw_y2c18ux8Y9Kgp5FD2s5Z9RlxEKiM2E3UxOoSJUYpyGZ/s1600/IMG_0259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG1gKln4BqlYVQz6SubNDtFM1hJjzKE0V6CGDATrZFQfPOtY71fppJmAGmSlrsLTjX8qWttrOZHHFA5gKLC5XAL7N-vh8gVaBw_y2c18ux8Y9Kgp5FD2s5Z9RlxEKiM2E3UxOoSJUYpyGZ/s320/IMG_0259.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christian church in the Mezquita</td></tr>
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The Mezquita was very cool. It was first constructed as a Christian church in about 600 AD. Became a mosque in 785 and was reconverted into a Christian church when Cordoba was recaptured in 1236. The huge floor plan is unique in the 854 pillars supporting a relatively low roof with horse shoe shaped red and white painted arches. In the center of it all a renaissance style cathedral was built in the 1520s. And strangely enough, for me at least, it all works. In general I'm suspicious of the over ornamentation of renaissance or baroque churches but here, for some reason, it seems to come together and it is very special. Maybe the music helped?? <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj96-t8_XXUBRicK4Qi0CJMNi5PyGk1MrpmzMMHeslHatsgyPT1IqoIMPWasd23BqkdoFRyj3qhNwu78MRkD3jnhG_XkKgCaORdSoOXTXbH__QRubYBl2f5XUoMpeM9b6Y6vRTf9mBTmAhj/s1600/IMG_0270.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj96-t8_XXUBRicK4Qi0CJMNi5PyGk1MrpmzMMHeslHatsgyPT1IqoIMPWasd23BqkdoFRyj3qhNwu78MRkD3jnhG_XkKgCaORdSoOXTXbH__QRubYBl2f5XUoMpeM9b6Y6vRTf9mBTmAhj/s320/IMG_0270.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arches in the maksura area of the Mezquita</td></tr>
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We had to make an early departure the next morning for the drive back so we really gave Cordoba a short shift. I would say, if you're traveling in Spain, don't miss Seville or Cordoba. But go in the spring or fall when temperatures are lower and crowds are not a factor. Neither the cathedral in Seville of the Mezquita in Cordoba were over crowded but the streets were full and the area around the Mezquita was very touristy.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3J9Fc-MY85KEx1Td_aXZKVBh1hxtPjSwaOldALONHlm6LLDRhE2EM87DzHDPL_9yhDn72fQK7wBA1EdtOT96wqgVAk5w8b0zO8hVbFIhgwdRMmwDd10Vy5c5hvcz8plKejA9EbQTudOg_/s1600/IMG_0268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3J9Fc-MY85KEx1Td_aXZKVBh1hxtPjSwaOldALONHlm6LLDRhE2EM87DzHDPL_9yhDn72fQK7wBA1EdtOT96wqgVAk5w8b0zO8hVbFIhgwdRMmwDd10Vy5c5hvcz8plKejA9EbQTudOg_/s320/IMG_0268.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ceiling of the maksura</td></tr>
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We're now back on the boat in Gibraltar. The drive was up into the rolling big sky country of southern Spain before entering the coastal Sierra Nevada. As we got out of the valley and into the hills the countryside became almost entirely olive orchards. Olive groves, carefully planted, well organized, well tended with drip irrigation and every modern tool for mile after mile after mile. Most of this is relatively new planting. It has the look of cattle country that has been turned by modern techniques into olive country. Very interesting and impressive. Then it was through the mountains and along the coast and 'home". Again we were very impressed by the Spanish infrastructure and the roads. It made for an easy trip.<br />
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Next week we're off by train to Madrid. Carol and Steven will be there as well and we're looking forward to the trip.<br />
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Love to all,<br />
Bill & Janet<br />
SV Airstream</div>
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